Some of the LCD elements (small squares) on the display are failing to
light. If I push on the end of the ribbon cable where it connects to the
edge of the display driver PC board, the problem elements will start
working until I remove the pressure. This leads me to think that the
ribbon cable's connection pads are failing. Is there any way to repair
the PC connection pads for each conductor of the ribbon cable on the
edge of the board? There isn't any hardware connector for the ribbon
cable on the board. It connects directly to the pads on the edge.

BTW- This is the second time the display has failed in the same way. I
replaced the entire display assembly (LCD and driver board) about two
years ago. Cost about $90. The replacement worked fine until recently.
Since the home is not occupied in the winter, the heat is turned off.
The temperature can get down to well below freezing for days or weeks.
Could this be why the display has failed twice?

Thanks

"Techguy" wrote in message
news:PFg1h.4184$WB4.681@trndny04...

BTW- This is the second time the display has failed in the same way. I
replaced the entire display assembly (LCD and driver board) about two
years ago. Cost about $90.

Wouldn't a whole new oven cost that?

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 06:08:47 GMT, Techguy wrote:

Some of the LCD elements (small squares) on the display are failing to
light. If I push on the end of the ribbon cable where it connects to the
edge of the display driver PC board, the problem elements will start
working until I remove the pressure. This leads me to think that the
ribbon cable's connection pads are failing. Is there any way to repair
the PC connection pads for each conductor of the ribbon cable on the
edge of the board? There isn't any hardware connector for the ribbon
cable on the board. It connects directly to the pads on the edge.

BTW- This is the second time the display has failed in the same way. I
replaced the entire display assembly (LCD and driver board) about two
years ago. Cost about $90. The replacement worked fine until recently.
Since the home is not occupied in the winter, the heat is turned off.
The temperature can get down to well below freezing for days or weeks.
Could this be why the display has failed twice?

This reaffirms my belief that modern Sharp microwaves are crap.

wrote:
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 06:08:47 GMT, Techguy wrote:

Some of the LCD elements (small squares) on the display are failing to
light. If I push on the end of the ribbon cable where it connects to the
edge of the display driver PC board, the problem elements will start
working until I remove the pressure. This leads me to think that the
ribbon cable's connection pads are failing. Is there any way to repair
the PC connection pads for each conductor of the ribbon cable on the
edge of the board? There isn't any hardware connector for the ribbon
cable on the board. It connects directly to the pads on the edge.

BTW- This is the second time the display has failed in the same way. I
replaced the entire display assembly (LCD and driver board) about two
years ago. Cost about $90. The replacement worked fine until recently.
Since the home is not occupied in the winter, the heat is turned off.
The temperature can get down to well below freezing for days or weeks.
Could this be why the display has failed twice?

This reaffirms my belief that modern Sharp microwaves are crap.

Not necessarily. I have a Sharp Carousel microwave which I bought
new almost seven years ago. Still works almost as well as it did the
day I bought it. I say "almost" because every once in a while the
machine will refuse to start when the door is closed--it takes a couple
of openings and closings to get it to work. This is intermittent; most
of the time the microwave works exactly as it should. Very difficult to
predict just when it will happen. I think the door switches are either
very dirty from grease, etc. or simply wearing out after seven years of
daily use.

As to your belief that all recent-vintage Sharp microwave ovens are
"crap", that's your opinion and you are entitled to it. However, I
don't really think there are many microwaves out there that will last
years or decades as the old Amana Radaranges, Tappans, etc. used to. (I
recently read in another discussion forum of an Amana Radarange that
was still going strong after almost three decades.) Today's
microwaves, like just about everything else these days, are made
offshore, which often means lower quality, which in turn means the
device will not last as long as American-made appliances did. The very
low prices of new microwaves these days (I've seen them priced as low
as $30) means it is not cost-effective to repair them when they go bad,
especially from a major component failure such as the magnetron.
Remember that any repair station nowadays will charge a minimum fee
just to look at a piece of equipment; this will be in addition to taxes
and the cost of any repairs done to the unit. If you paid only $30-$40
or so for the microwave and it will cost $90 to have it repaired, your
best bet is to junk the old unit and buy a brand new one; that or
simply put up with the defective display, as long as the oven works
well otherwise.

Low or downright cold temperatures in and of themselves will not
ordinarily kill an electronic device, but they won't do the device any
good, either. I would find a way to keep the heat on to maintain a
temperature of, say, 68 or 70 degrees F. during the winter in the home
where the defective microwave is located, or make arrangements to have
someone live in the home during the winter months so that keeping the
furnace going will be justified. There are likely other devices such as
radios, televisions and the like in the dwelling that are taking a
beating from the lack of heat as well.



Kind regards,

Jeff Strieble, WB8NHV (email addy not shown to deter spammers)
Fairport Harbor, Ohio USA

Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 06:08:47 +0000, Techguy Has Frothed:


Some of the LCD elements (small squares) on the display are failing to
light. If I push on the end of the ribbon cable where it connects to the
edge of the display driver PC board, the problem elements will start
working until I remove the pressure. This leads me to think that the
ribbon cable's connection pads are failing. Is there any way to repair the
PC connection pads for each conductor of the ribbon cable on the edge of
the board? There isn't any hardware connector for the ribbon cable on the
board. It connects directly to the pads on the edge.


I've done it before but without a picture it's hard to tell what you have.


BTW- This is the second time the display has failed in the same way. I
replaced the entire display assembly (LCD and driver board) about two
years ago. Cost about $90. The replacement worked fine until recently.
Since the home is not occupied in the winter, the heat is turned off.
The temperature can get down to well below freezing for days or weeks.
Could this be why the display has failed twice?

Thanks


I doubt it. Lots of new stock is stored in non climate controlled areas in
the winter.

I would buy a new oven if you can't fix this one for a lot less than 90
bux.

The microwave is built into the cabinets above the stove with an exhaust
fan. A new one would cost at least $200 along with the hassle of
removing and installing.

This ribbon cable is a thin plastic strip about 50-mm wide. It has two
layers. One layer has the conductive traces imprinted on the inside
surface. The other serves as a backing layer to protect the traces. The
back surface of the ribbon cable is peeled away from the conductor layer
at the end of the cable. The backing is glued to the reverse side of the
PC board edge to relieve the strain on the conductor connections. I
can't tell for sure if the ribbon conductors are soldered to the board.
The protective backing makes me think the conductor traces are self
adhesive and the backing has to be removed to attach the conductors to
their corresponding pads on the PC board.

Does this sound like the kind of ribbon cable you repaired? Could you
give me a general idea of what you did to repair yours? I can supply a
picture if necessary.

Thanks

"Techguy" wrote in message
news:eDU1h.4659$WB4.2602@trndny04...

This ribbon cable is a thin plastic strip about 50-mm wide. It has two
layers. One layer has the conductive traces imprinted on the inside
surface.

Do a search for zebra connector for more info.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"Techguy" wrote in message
news:eDU1h.4659$WB4.2602@trndny04...


This ribbon cable is a thin plastic strip about 50-mm wide. It has two
layers. One layer has the conductive traces imprinted on the inside
surface.


Do a search for zebra connector for more info.

I'm familiar with a foam Zebra strip which is several millimeters thick.
I've never seen that material used to make a ribbon cable. The ribbon
cable in question is made with two thin layers of plastic film
sandwiched together. One inner surface has the conductor traces and the
other is the protective layer over the conductors. The cable is less
than 1-mm thick.

"Techguy" wrote in message
news:gm_1h.6067$Gg5.3176@trndny02...

Do a search for zebra connector for more info.

I'm familiar with a foam Zebra strip which is several millimeters thick.
I've never seen that material used to make a ribbon cable. The ribbon
cable in question is made with two thin layers of plastic film sandwiched
together. One inner surface has the conductor traces and the other is the
protective layer over the conductors. The cable is less than 1-mm thick.

IME rubber zebra strips - haven't seen foam. However it is a fact that some
processes are not doable in the field and it is possible that this is one.

this is why I stick with the old vacuum flourescent microwaves. work great.





"Homer J Simpson" wrote in message
news:bo32h.39205$P7.1441@edtnps89...

"Techguy" wrote in message
news:gm_1h.6067$Gg5.3176@trndny02...

Do a search for zebra connector for more info.

I'm familiar with a foam Zebra strip which is several millimeters thick.
I've never seen that material used to make a ribbon cable. The ribbon
cable in question is made with two thin layers of plastic film sandwiched
together. One inner surface has the conductor traces and the other is the
protective layer over the conductors. The cable is less than 1-mm thick.

IME rubber zebra strips - haven't seen foam. However it is a fact that
some processes are not doable in the field and it is possible that this is
one.

"Mike" wrote in message
.. .

this is why I stick with the old vacuum flourescent microwaves. work
great.

Yep. I like my all tube VCR and Ipod also!

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"Mike" wrote in message
.. .


this is why I stick with the old vacuum flourescent microwaves. work
great.


Yep. I like my all tube VCR and Ipod also!

http://www.audiocubes.com/product/Th...Amplifier.html

"Techguy" wrote in message
news:C7s2h.10290$gf5.1790@trndny01...

Yep. I like my all tube VCR and Ipod also!

http://www.audiocubes.com/product/Th...Amplifier.html

Love it!


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