Finally after hours of going around in circles cos I was not paying
attention and the no tuner signal (blue screen) causing havoc on my
readings I have determined now that the CRT is faulty. The green gun is
obviously weak and it doesn't matter what signal I drive it with the
green gun is dull.

Without the use of a rejunivator is there any quick tricks I can try to
see if I can get the green gun a bit brighter. The other guns run fine.
Green does how up on the CRT just dull, hence causing the over driven
red+blue = magenta hue.

Some descriptive instructions appreciated. Like "stick 12vdc across
green cathode and gnd"... or what ever the solution may be.


Thanks

TEX

"TEX" wrote in message news:1154421884.407204@ftpsrv1...
Finally after hours of going around in circles cos I was not paying
attention and the no tuner signal (blue screen) causing havoc on my
readings I have determined now that the CRT is faulty. The green gun is
obviously weak and it doesn't matter what signal I drive it with the green
gun is dull.

Without the use of a rejunivator is there any quick tricks I can try to
see if I can get the green gun a bit brighter. The other guns run fine.
Green does how up on the CRT just dull, hence causing the over driven
red+blue = magenta hue.

Some descriptive instructions appreciated. Like "stick 12vdc across green
cathode and gnd"... or what ever the solution may be.


Thanks

TEX

Try unsoldering all 3 cathode pins then solder a fly lead to the dud cathode
and give it brief dabs on the chassis - if the CRT is scrap anyway you've
nothing to lose and I've found this sometimes wakes up a sleepy cathode!

On Tue, 01 Aug 2006 20:02:39 GMT, "ian field"
wrote:


Without the use of a rejunivator is there any quick tricks I can try to
see if I can get the green gun a bit brighter. The other guns run fine.
Green does how up on the CRT just dull, hence causing the over driven
red+blue = magenta hue.



Thanks

TEX

Try unsoldering all 3 cathode pins then solder a fly lead to the dud cathode
and give it brief dabs on the chassis - if the CRT is scrap anyway you've
nothing to lose and I've found this sometimes wakes up a sleepy cathode!



Another thing that may work is to boost the heater voltage a little.
Disconnecting the heater winding from both pins of the CRT and then
powering it with a few turns of wire around the flyback core will
work. It usually takes 3-5 turns of wire for the normal 6.3V. Note
the brightness of the heaters before you start and then aim for
something a little brighter with the new winding. If you have a true
RMS volt meter, you can measure the voltage and go for something
around 8 volts. A regular DMM won't give you an accurate reading for
this application.
Andy Cuffe

Another thing that may work is to boost the heater voltage a little.
Disconnecting the heater winding from both pins of the CRT and then
powering it with a few turns of wire around the flyback core will
work. It usually takes 3-5 turns of wire for the normal 6.3V. Note
the brightness of the heaters before you start and then aim for
something a little brighter with the new winding. If you have a true
RMS volt meter, you can measure the voltage and go for something
around 8 volts. A regular DMM won't give you an accurate reading for
this application.
Andy Cuffe





And don't go overboard, I tried 5 turns on an old monitor once and the
heater lit up light a lightbulb.

I use this setup to redo Sony CRT's. I don't know what type of T.V.
you have, but it's the same basic setup. Be very carefull doing
this!!!!

I would like to share this great tip with all you great helpfull Tech's

out there! This is only for Technicians who really know there way
around the inside of a T.V.! Please don't just anyone try this!! If you

don't have a proper CRT rejuvinating set, this will be a great fix, for

an otherwise lost cause.


Sony 1 K problems, that is T.V.'s with the red, or green, or blue
having too low, or high of an emission to get a raster due to the
"blanking circuit", can be solved with an odd, & somewhat dangerous
technique! With the set off, unsolder each cathode on the CRT board,
then momentarily bridge the gap of each gun, one at a time, to see how
much emission there is. You will have to raise the G 2 pot to get a bit



of raster in a darkened room! Next solder the two good cathodes
(usually only one is out of gain specs), back, leaving the bad one. Now



this is where it gets dangerous!!! While the set is off remove the
focus line from the CRT socket ( 5000 volts), & while the set is
running, momentarily make contact with the unsoldered leg of the bad
gun. Do this with caution, & at least five times. It will try to arc,
but just keep a steady hand, & keep the wire with a good insulated tool



at the unsoldered leg only. Now, while the set is off, unhook the G 2
wire, & set it to about 200 volts DC unloaded, & charge a 100 uf
capacitor @ 250 volts. Do this two, or three times, then discharge it
to the unsoldered gun, while the set is runing. Do this charging, &
discharging to the gun at least five times! At this point, you should
see the bad gun get brighter, & brighter. I have done quite a lot of
experimenting, & this will save a lot of those Sony CRT's, that would
otherwise be toast. Grey scale comes back to within a close enough
spec, to make the customer happy. Just don't give a long warranty. Hope



this helps you all out. Take care, Dani.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:G1Tzg.3137$8v.1590@trnddc05...




Another thing that may work is to boost the heater voltage a little.
Disconnecting the heater winding from both pins of the CRT and then
powering it with a few turns of wire around the flyback core will
work. It usually takes 3-5 turns of wire for the normal 6.3V. Note
the brightness of the heaters before you start and then aim for
something a little brighter with the new winding. If you have a true
RMS volt meter, you can measure the voltage and go for something
around 8 volts. A regular DMM won't give you an accurate reading for
this application.
Andy Cuffe





And don't go overboard, I tried 5 turns on an old monitor once and the
heater lit up light a lightbulb.

Monitors are a completely different can of worms! The heater supply is taken
from the PSU instead of the flyback for a reason, the different line periods
for different scan modes makes it next to impossible to accurately regulate
heater power!