Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Adrian Glaubitz
 
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Default SONY AE1C intermittant green-color HELP

Hello,

I have a 16-year old SONY KV-X2531D (AE1C-Chassis) set which has been
repaired several
times already but still doing tough so far. Now it has started to drop
green-color
intermittantly meaning that it comes back after certain circumstances. I
have made
the following observations/measurements so far:

Green drops in normal reception-mode giving the picture a red tint but
picture visible, turning set
into StandBy and turning it on again will sometimes bring the green back but
mostly screen will just remain black (slight raster visible though). What
really
puzzles me is that activating videotext works (i.e. I get the text-picture)
with green-color missing. But normal reception or OSD (green) does not show
up
(I'd expect the video also to appear with green missing, but video is just
black
and videotext with green missing). I cannot influence the color-dropping
mechanically
which would probably unveal dry solder joints.

Anyway, I checked the voltages on the CRT-neck board:

- 12V from video-board is okay
- R,G,B from video-board measure around 12V AC
- R,G,B directly on CRT-neck measure 280 (R), 350 (B), 480(G) AC-V

So has anyone any suggestions ? I suppose this must originate somewhere on
the video-board, since all video generated by the set itself works (except
for green missing thus no OSD/videotext with no green) but external sources
(tuner/AV) do not.


Best Regards,

Adrian

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Boba
 
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Default SONY AE1C intermittant green-color HELP

Try www.fixya.com they they are very good with TV's.

Good Luck

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Art
 
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Default SONY AE1C intermittant green-color HELP

Anything from cracked solder connections to corroded crt pins may cause this
problem. Switch the drive signals from the main to the crt panel by swapping
a few wires, (solder-unsolder, etc), red/green or blue/green and see if
symptom follows the green drive or in possibly on the crt board or in the
crt. Active or passive components from the jungle ic to the crt may be the
cause. Good Luck.
"Boba" wrote in message
oups.com...
Try www.fixya.com they they are very good with TV's.

Good Luck



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Adrian Glaubitz
 
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Default SONY AE1C intermittant green-color HELP

Hello,

Anything from cracked solder connections to corroded crt pins may cause
this problem. Switch the drive signals from the main to the crt panel by
swapping a few wires, (solder-unsolder, etc), red/green or blue/green and
see if symptom follows the green drive or in possibly on the crt board or
in the crt.


Hmm, but I checked the voltages of all colors and they seemed to be okay,
didn't they (all read about 12V AC).

Active or passive components from the jungle ic to the crt may
be the cause.


Yes, thats where I already poked around but didn't find anything
(at least cooling down with cooler-spray did not change anything).
Databases say, that either jungle IC may be bad or one of the XTALs.
I have now acquired the appropriate schematics for AE1C, I will
check all the voltages and scope-diagrams on this board and compare
with the references in the schematic. But what do I do when
I find one voltage/diagrams to differ from the schematic ?

Good Luck.


Thanks,

Adrian

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Adrian Glaubitz
 
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Default SONY AE1C intermittant green-color HELP

Hello,

well, the set is pulling me a leg. Once I was about to start to check
the voltages on the video-board, the picture turned back to normal
while on without me even touching it *aaargh*. But I have resoldered
many suspicous joints on the mainboard (D-board) including GND-connectors.
The video-board had not any bad joints visible (it has small parts on
it only). If the problem will come back, I will have to check
the jungle-chip voltages and the clock-signal from both XTALs.

Regards,

Adrian



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Posted to sci.electronics.repair
Adrian Glaubitz
 
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Default SONY AE1C intermittant green-color HELP

Hi,

Hello,

I have a 16-year old SONY KV-X2531D (AE1C-Chassis) set which has been
repaired several
times already but still doing tough so far. Now it has started to drop
green-color
intermittantly meaning that it comes back after certain circumstances. I
have made
the following observations/measurements so far:

Green drops in normal reception-mode giving the picture a red tint but
picture visible, turning set
into StandBy and turning it on again will sometimes bring the green back
but mostly screen will just remain black (slight raster visible though).
What really
puzzles me is that activating videotext works (i.e. I get the
text-picture) with green-color missing. But normal reception or OSD
(green) does not show up
(I'd expect the video also to appear with green missing, but video is just
black
and videotext with green missing). I cannot influence the color-dropping
mechanically
which would probably unveal dry solder joints.

Anyway, I checked the voltages on the CRT-neck board:

- 12V from video-board is okay
- R,G,B from video-board measure around 12V AC
- R,G,B directly on CRT-neck measure 280 (R), 350 (B), 480(G) AC-V

So has anyone any suggestions ? I suppose this must originate somewhere on
the video-board, since all video generated by the set itself works (except
for green missing thus no OSD/videotext with no green) but external
sources (tuner/AV) do not.


Hooray !

With the help of the Service Manual with schematics for AE1C, my
DMM/Scope and freeze spray I finally found the one to blame .
I traced the luma-signal up to the jungle-IC (TDA-4580/IC301)
and up it to the latter it was okay. But the RGB-output of it
was not ok. So I gave the jungle-IC a breathe of freeze spray
with the set being on and a video signal connected and voila -
the picture turned back to perfectly normal. After short
period it would turn black again, so the jungle-IC is bad.
I could reproduce this behavior any time and I also found
some other posts with "NO PIC-REPLACE TDA4580", so I'll
give it a try.

I already bought replacement online and will have the IC (28DIL)
be replaced by an professional technican at my work in university
(I simply pulled out the B1 video-board), as he has a profesional
rework station (as opposed to my soldering iron bought at Home
Improvement ). I'm looking forward, whether this will fix it.
I will post the results anyway.

Regards,

Adrian
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