Mind died.

It was working (but was making a buzzing sound.) Then it died.

The transformer is good. The Triac is not shorted.

However, the sensor and element in the iron have infinite resistance,
(i.e., open).

This seems odd. Both components are 2 wire.

I'm thinking the iron is bad, however, it may not be worth getting a
replacement.

I was thinking of "jumping" the Triac just to see what would happen if
I forced it to ON. (I wouldn't hurt the Triac if I jump (short) the
outputs, right?)

Thanks
Tom

"tomhoo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Mind died.

It was working (but was making a buzzing sound.) Then it died.

The transformer is good. The Triac is not shorted.

However, the sensor and element in the iron have infinite resistance,
(i.e., open).

This seems odd. Both components are 2 wire.

I'm thinking the iron is bad, however, it may not be worth getting a
replacement.

I was thinking of "jumping" the Triac just to see what would happen if
I forced it to ON. (I wouldn't hurt the Triac if I jump (short) the
outputs, right?)

Thanks
Tom

The element should have a fairly low ohm dc resistance measured with your
VOM. Bear in mind the most common failure is the element.
The basic start is to check the element and then work 'outwards' from that.

--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

"tomhoo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Mind died.

It was working (but was making a buzzing sound.) Then it died.
The transformer is good. The Triac is not shorted.
However, the sensor and element in the iron have infinite resistance,
(i.e., open).
This seems odd. Both components are 2 wire.
I'm thinking the iron is bad, however, it may not be worth getting a
replacement.
I was thinking of "jumping" the Triac just to see what would happen if
I forced it to ON. (I wouldn't hurt the Triac if I jump (short) the
outputs, right?)

Thanks
Tom


The heater element is usually a low resistance (10 to 30 ohms).
These elements fail in two ways: Dead short which will blow a fuse (if one
is in-line) OR to "open" (infinite resistance) - where it just not work the
next day.
You should be able to contact Hexacon for a replacement heater element.

Hexacon service centers
http://www.hexaconelectric.com/service.html

Attention: Repair Department
Hexacon Electric Company
161 West Clay Avenue
Roselle Park NJ 07204
908-245-6200

Disassembled iron, got a response from the sensor (is something like
over 30Mohm cold and much less heated.) Used another soldering iron to
heat it some and it responded.

The element was open.

I disassembled it by grinding the weld at the tip end and sliding the
inner tube out. The element wire and shorted on the tube it was
wrapped on. The insulation ceramic coating or paper disintegrated
allowing the short.

Now the big question is: "Did I fry something in the control unit?"

The element is $32 which is about all I'm willing to spend to get it
working again.

I would think that any kind of element failure would not damage the
control unit.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tom

tomhoo wrote:
Now the big question is: "Did I fry something in the control unit?"

Assuming the transformer output is in the neighborhood of 24 V, maybe
you could wire up a couple of car tail light lamps in place of the
element. When you first switch on, they should light brightly. If
you heat the sensor with another iron, they should get dimmer.

Matt Roberds

"tomhoo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Disassembled iron, got a response from the sensor (is something like
over 30Mohm cold and much less heated.) Used another soldering iron to
heat it some and it responded.

The element was open.

I disassembled it by grinding the weld at the tip end and sliding the
inner tube out. The element wire and shorted on the tube it was
wrapped on. The insulation ceramic coating or paper disintegrated
allowing the short.

Now the big question is: "Did I fry something in the control unit?"

The element is $32 which is about all I'm willing to spend to get it
working again.

I would think that any kind of element failure would not damage the
control unit.


Tom -

The control unit is likely okay. Some earlier control board designs would
sometimes take out the TRIAC, but a proper TRIAC design (e.g. motor controls
and lighting) should avoid that problem. Sounds like you had many hours
(and years) of service -- should be straight forward to get going again.

gb

Yeah, control unit shouldn't be a problem. Talked to Jim in service @
Hexacon and he said he didn't think he ever saw a control unit
returned for servicing. (of course, if out of warranty, there is a
good chance they are just discarded and treated as consumables.)

Anyhow, I have a new element (TT12) that should be delivered today
(Friday).

Can't wait to get going on my projects.

Final update:

Got new element, installed.

Dead.

Discovered broken lead in cord where it flexes at iron.

Cut off end of cord and reinstall. (If anyone has done this, it is
extremely difficult due to crimp brass fitting. Required lathe work,
brass welding, silver soldering, ugh.)

Fired it up and it didn't cycle.

Discovered broken lead in cord where it flexes going into control unit.

Cut of end of cord and reinstall. (This was easy.)

Everything works!

Reassemble iron and spot welded ground wire from new element breaks off
due to excessive weld bead at backside of spot weld. Soldered a lead
to the ground wire, routed outside the iron and looped it around one of
the three screws that hold the element to the handle.

This was a totally insane repair.

What is unfortunate, is that I wasn't familiar with this unit and
essentially ruined the element because the sensor wire was broken.