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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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john deere gx355
Any idea's on the cause and fix for engine starting as normal but stops as
soon as the key is released? -- Jackie Lowe |
#2
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My first thought is that the ignition switch is not keeping the ignition
line hot in the run position. But, I really don't know any specifics about that model. Being a diesel, some kind of valve has to be closing to stop the engine and shut off the fuel, and that valve may be in the injector pump. WT "Jackie Lowe" wrote in message ... Any idea's on the cause and fix for engine starting as normal but stops as soon as the key is released? -- Jackie Lowe |
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Jackie Lowe wrote: Any idea's on the cause and fix for engine starting as normal but stops as soon as the key is released? Hi Jackie... Don't know John Deere stuff, much less what a gx355 is, but if it's of any help... in the pre computerized automobile days what you describe was a pretty common fault. There was a resistor in series with the ignition coil primary. This resistor was shorted while the engine was cranking, but "un-shorted" the instant the key was released. As I recall they were pretty easy to spot; maybe 20 or 25 watts or so. Take care. Ken |
#4
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Not familiar with the gx355--my Cat 3208 has a fuel cutoff selinoid
(sp) that energizes when the key is turned to start and allows fuel to flow to fuel pump. If the voltage is lost when the key is returned to the run position--the engine will stop. A voltage ohm meter (VOM) across the the fuel cutoff selinoid would tell you the voltage is cutting off when the key is turn to run. Good luck |
#5
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I had a 1985 Mercury Grand Prix that did the same thing. It had an
electric fuel pump that had two wires going to it. One wire was a regular wire from the start position of the starter solenoid that sent the full 12 volts to the pump. The other wire was a high resistance wire from the run position of the solenoid that sent a reduced voltage to the pump. The high resistance wire was very stiff and broken in the insulation half way to the pump. I put a jumper on the solenoid and sent the full 12 volts to the pump. It was still working when I got rid of the car about 5 years later. Ford put out a TSB on this problem later on. Van Jackie Lowe wrote: Any idea's on the cause and fix for engine starting as normal but stops as soon as the key is released? -- Jackie Lowe |
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