"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote
in message ink.net...
...
If you're familiar with draw filing, that's the way to remove dings on a
table. A single cut file (best not a new one, which is usually quite
aggressive) is placed on the table of the mill and drawn sort of
sideways
along the table with light palm pressure on the file. Given the proper
application, it glides over the table with no consequence, but removes
anything that stands above the table. Cast iron is very good about
cutting
away easily, unlike steel. If the file traverses the surface smoothly
and
doesn't hang up on anything, the table is clean. If anything stands up,
you'll feel it. Just repeat the process until you don't. You'll be
able
to
see where it was, and how it was removed to flush with the balance of
the
table.
...

Harold,
I routinely do just this thing. Except, oil the table and use a stone.
Dropping items on the cast surface or clamping steel directly to the table
will raise a very small dimple. The stone removes them nicely.

Karl

As well as a miniscule portion of the table that was in good condition. It's
important that the file used not be new, which I mentioned. A slightly
dull file will remove any highs, but otherwise leave the table untouched.
If, by chance, it's prone to cutting, the file is too sharp. A stone
doesn't do that, although I'd agree that what is removed is miniscule.
Trouble is, if you're one of those neurotic types that is constantly
dressing the table, the affect over a period of time is detrimental, due in
part to dressing the area where one tends to concentrate use far more than,
say, the ends of the table. . The only place I ever touch a surface with a
stone is if I drop something on my chromed ways---at which time I'll
generally use one made of a silicon carbide, preferred for it's greater
hardness.

Best policy here is to wipe the table with your bare hand. Anything
standing up is generally apparent by feel. Dress only when necessary,
especially if a stone is applied.

Harold