Hi,

I am a locksmith.

Here are some things to consider. First off you may not have to replace the
box. If you have a 2 3/4" backset you are in business. The grade 1 Schlage
will adjust down to 1 3/8 thickness.

If you do need to replace the box, buy one prefabbed. They are cheap.

You should get good longevity out of your gate hardware if several things
are done. First off your gate should be solidly constructed so you don't
have a lot of flex and alignment problems. Next, consider a good quality
hydraulic door closer as a requirement over a spring hinge. This will
prevent slamming, but have enough oomph to reliably shut the door.

You are going to need to routinely service what ever kind of lock you
install. This means periodic lubrication and making sure the lock does not
get loose.

As far as supporting the latch, the easy way is to buy a plastic piece that
fits inside the hollow part of the box, or just have the welder tack in a
few rods to keep the latch in place.

If you have not buggered up the new lock, consider something. This is on a
gate. ADA compliance should not be a big deal and you can still buy the
same grade key in the knob lock rather than a lever handle set. These are
preferable for several reasons. First, the lever is an inviting target for
vandals to try and force. Secondly the lever will tend to droop over time.
this is because the weight is unbalanced. This eventually causes problems.

You local locksmith may very well have a bunch of really good used grade 1
locks in his used pile that may give you better service than that expensive
one you just got. Often these were removed to comply with the ADA laws
requiring levers for reasonable access. This should not be an issue on a
fence gate.


--

__
Roger Shoaf

Important factors in selecting a mate:
1] Depth of gene pool
2] Position on the food chain.



wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello,

I'm the happy(?) owner of an apartment complex. A few years ago, we
put in security fencing and power gates. We also have a small gate for
pedestrians.

My tenants are pretty rough on the physical plant, and the
pedestrian gate has been no exception. They have repeatedly broke the
lock ( a Titan by Kwikset ). The steel box in the gate that the lock
lives in has also been somwhat munged. I decided I'd had enough.

I bought an ANSI grade 1 Schlage lock - the kind you might find on a
courthouse or a public school. Made to take it. The new lock requires
a thicker box, and has requirements for support of the latch inside the
box.

So I went down to the steel store bought a plate of 1 3/4" thick
mild steel, big enough to mount the lock with. I drilled this chunk of
steel for the lock - took me almost a week. Went through four hole
saws, burned out a cheap chinese angle grinder, almost fried my drill
press. Had to make a special jig to hold the sucker before I could
inset the latch plate with my Sherline mill.

Then I realized that the thing was WAY too heavy - it would act as
a hammerhead on the end of the gate, and bash the post to death. So I
swiss-cheesed it out with lightening holes. Got it down to 4 1/2
pounds.

Now I need to go out to the complex, cut the existing box in the
gate and weld in my block.

Whups, don't have a welder. Well, I do have an oxyacetalene torch,
but it's surely not big enough to weld in that block!

I was thinking of sourcing a small but quality MIG welder - say one
of the small Hobarts or Lincolns. Probably such would not be enough
to weld the block directly - but what if I preheat it with a propane
torch? I could probably preheat it to 400degrees or so, no problem.
Would a MIG welder that is essentially too small, work if used that
way?

I ask because I really do not plan to do a whole lot in "big iron",
and would rather not buy a monster machine just for this one job.
Thanks in advance,

- Jerry Kaidor ( )