granpaw wrote:
Hello all.
After reading the numerous posts as to the best chainsaw to have, I was
wondering.
This being a metalworking group, where many are machinists, welders etc.
who, for the most part, seem fairly self sufficient, why is it that
no-one seems to want to suggest that the OP sharpen his/her own chain(s)
manually?
If a person uses a saw for any amount of time at all it *will* need to
be sharpened.
I do not advocate the use of electric sharpening stones, I have used
them and found them IMHO to do more harm to a chain than good, as it is
near impossible to reliably do each tooth exactly the same.

Chain sharpening is the least labor intensive part of sawing IMO and can
save you lots of time,gas,and money.
A few pointers I might add:
Always tighten your chain, if needed, before sharpening and use the
proper sized round file.
Secure the saw by the bar in a vice if possible, so that the chain
turns freely and mark the chain so you can tell when you have filed all
the links.
File all the links on one side of the bar then turn the saw around and
do the other side.
Always use the same number of strokes on both sides of the chain, at the
proper angle and depth in each tooth, if you don't, your saw will
eventually try to cut a circle, as one side of the chain has more "meat"
than the other. IIRC the correct angle is around 35º for most chains.
Don't force the file, it will take off quite a bit of metal if it's a
good file, if it ain't get a new one.

Hope this short spurt helps someone out there.
granpaw
"Cutting wood warms three times..cutting it...splitting it...and burning
it."


I hand sharpen all my chains on the saw . I also own a commercial chain
grinder . About the only time it ever gets used is when a competition
guy asks me to do some chains for him . Lots of misconceptions to what
is the right angle . For competition saws we ran lots of tests . Simply
put the difference between the angles was not significant . It is not
really the angle that determines how fast a saw cuts . Brand new chains
are not as close tolerance as people might think . Every tooth might be
the exact same size but they end up at slightly different heights once
assembled . One high tooth makes the bar jump a small amount and the
next few teeth get a free ride so to speak . Rakers or depth gages
determine how much each tooth can cut . To high means your saw is not
working at maximum efficiency , too low and it increases kickbacks .
Lots of west coast fallers take them off completely but their saws have
more then enough horsepower to get away with this . On smaller saws it
will bog them down . With the added risk of eating a spinning chain it
is not a risk worth taking . For the average person it is enough to get
the teeth as close to the same angle and same length when hand filing .
Keeping too pronounced a hook from developing . As the tooth gets filed
back it gets shorter . One size smaller file should then be used to
prevent sloping the tooth back . The real key is the tips of the teeth
should be needle sharp when done . If you look at the end of a tip and
see a tiny shiny spot give it another stroke . That shiny spot is a flat
on the tip . Some people file one side then turn the saw to file the
other . This is fine , in fact it's the way I do it . Some people have
the knack of filing one side right handed and the opposite side left
handed . I can't but works well for lots of people . Just try get both
sides roughly the same length . No need to get it all at one sharpening
.. If it is off by much just add a few extra strokes to the long side
each time you file until you get it close again . Very often a saw that
is cutting crooked it blamed on the chain . Yep some times it is but
very often it is the bar . Bars should be serviced every 25 hours .
Taken off the saw and a flat file run along the long edges to remove
groove the chain naturally produces . Then the file laid flat on the bar
and the burr removed. watch out these can be razor sharp . The groove
should then be cleaned out , going from tip to base so as not to push
the sludge into the roller tip . The oil holes cleaned out . Then the
bar reinstalled upside down , unless it is some kind of specialty bar
they sell for anti whatever is popular this week . Bars should be rolled
regularly to get maximum lifespan out of them . When I was younger I did
dangerous snag falling and falling on wild fires . Then I carried an
extra bar and chain . Now I only carry falling wedges . I am not sure
how many people get pinched in trees but pretty much never happens to me
so I avoid packing the added weight .
Ken Cutt