"~Roy" wrote in message
...
As good as a chain filer as you can be, its still impossible to get
all the teeth on the loop the same size as some will ber filed more
than others due to damages etc..........So about all I do is use a
file to keep them touched up, and file that chain probably no more
than 3 times if it really needs a good sharpening, and not just a
touch up.......After that it gets thrown in the pile and eventually
carried to the saw shop where they use a machine grinder and once set
it will make all the teeth uniform again (uniform that is in that it
will grind away wifer or longer teeth and make them all the same as
the smallest one since thats what the grinder is set on.

I buy Woodsman brand chain by the rolls from Baileys, and its pretty
cheap. Woodsman chain is actually Carlton Brand chain, which is of
very good quality........I try to sytay away for the chain with all
the anti kickback features on it as I want to cut wood, and have
experieince, and what a difference between backyard saw chain and pro
or commercial chain......The chrome edged or plated chain sucks big
time and will wear a file out quicker, and is more of a pain to
sharpen or touch up than good high quality carbon steel chain
is.......Same with files, Pferd makes the best longest lasting files
for chain sharpening..........Husky brand files are actually Pferd
files.......Its important to hold the right angle, so the rake is
proper, and the tooth does not get whats called a beak or hook on it
from too much undercut, and its also important to keep the rakers
filed to the correct limits below the top of the chains teeth. The
amount is different for a lot of saws, but its genberally .025 to
.030" on most saws....Too much and the chain grabs and stalls more
than it cuts, too little and your making to fine of chips and working
harder than you should be to cut the same amount of wood with a
properly adjusted raker on the chain.

There certainoy is nothing wrong with sharpening a chain by hand, but
do it wrong and the saw will not perform properly, and its possible to
ruin a bar and chain with improper sharpening.......Get ahold of whats
called a File-O-Plate made by carlton until you get used to what angle
the cutters need to be filed to and also the rakers adjusted to. Much
easier than a Oregon file guide......


On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:21:47 -0500, granpaw
wrote:

Sounds like the chains I run. Very aggressive and dangerous to run IF
you don't know what your doing. I do all my own sharpening. I have three
different methods. On a new chain that has low hours I'll use a hand
file with a guide and touch up the teeth. For field use I also have a
hand sharpener that can be set to cut the raker depth and set to cut the
teeth back equally as well. It is an old Granberg file-n-joint unit that
clamps to the bar and has a guide rail system with a lock that stops the
teeth. http://www.right-tool.com/filenjoint.html Then I also have an
old Belsaw wheel sharpener that I use to fix damaged chains.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----