On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 11:19:19 -0500, "R. O'Brian"
wrote:
The correct way to fix it is the later, set the barrel back. The ratchet
tooth height sets the headspace and it sounds about right as it is.
Building up the ratchet increases the headspace which is wrong and dangerous
in itself plus the firing pin might not reach if you did.
The cylinder end-shake is corrected first by shimming or what ever it takes,
then the barrel is removed and machined to allow one additional complete
turn on reinstallation. Then the barrel breech end is cut to set an
.003"-.005" cylinder gap. The barrel throat chamfer will then most likely
need to be recut.
Brownells sells all the tooling for this procedure. For a one-off job, it
is likely cheaper to take it to a gunsmith.
Randy
"Eric R Snow" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 08 Sep 2005 22:00:20 -0400, Artemia Salina
wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2005 18:10:29 +0000, T.Alan Kraus wrote:
A well used revolver will develop cylinder gaps that are of the order
you mention. The usual recourse is to remove the barrel, and if screwed
in, add threads, so that you can close the cylinder gap to .005 -. 010.
Do you know specifically what part(s) wear to cause this increased gap?
Moving the barrel back to compensate doesn't sound like the best fix
if the wear is in the cylinder somewhere.
Thanks, from a curious armchair gunsmith.
I need to be more clear in my posts. On the back end of the cylinder
are teeth which are used for indexing. These teeth are flat on top and
rotate against a machined surface which limits the movement of the
cylinder away from the barrel. With shells in the cylinder there is a
.004 gap between the rear of the shell and the back of the opening
where the cylinder fits. I think this part is called the frame.
Anyway, with the cylinder travel away from the barrel limited by the
teeth on the cylinder and if they were severly worn by the shells
themselves there is a large gap. If the cylinder is pushed all the way
forward this gap is about .002. So, it seems that two fixes are
possible. Either build up the teeth on the cylinder and re-machine to
the desired length (hard), or remove the barrel and machine the
shoulder to the desired clearance (not as hard). If the second option
is used the end of the spud which limits forward travel will either
have to be built up and re-machined, or a washer will need to be used,
or the spud can be removed, the cylinder counterbored, and a new spud
machined and pressed into the cylinder. I think that's clear enough.
But I often have a hard making myself understood. I'd be a lousy
teacher.
ERS
Greetings Randy,
Thanks for the post. It's nice to get info from someone who knows. As
for sending it out, well, I own a machine shop. And machining is not
just my job, it's also a hobby. So all the mods to this pistol will be
easy for me. I just didn't want to do something stupid. Now, another
question if you don't mind: My other pistol is an H&R model 999
Sportsman. In case you aren't familiar with this gun it is a .22
caliber, 9 shot, top break revolver. A friend of mine told me about
revolver he has that has different cylinders that can be exchanged.
One is for .22 LR and the other for .22 magnum. I have looked a little
for a similar cylinder for the Sportsman with no luck. If I am able to
find another .22 LR cylinder for this pistol would it be safe to alter
it for .22 magnum and fire the pistol? I can even make a cylinder from
scratch but I don't know how to determine if the pistol can safely
fire this round. I suppose I could look up the load a .22 mag puts on
the gun firing it and use the strength of mild steel and the way the
gun is put together but it makes much more sense to find out from
someone who knows if I'm doing it correctly. Or to tell me to get real
and don't mess with it.
Cheers,
Eric R Snow,
E T Precision Machine
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