According to Eric R Snow :
On Thu, 08 Sep 2005 13:56:06 -0400, Artemia Salina
wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2005 07:46:23 -0700, Eric R Snow wrote:
I have two .22 pistols. Both are H&R brand. One is the Trapper model
and has a 7 round cylinder. When the cylinder is pushed toward the
trigger there is almost .030 between the end of the cylinder and the
barrel. This gun is LOUD. even shooting CB shorts. I want, and can see
how, to remove the barrel. Then the barrel can be machined so that it
goes farther into the frame. If I do this, how much clearance should
there be?
I just Googled around a bit to see if I could find info on recommended
cylinder/barrel gap for .22 pistols, and while I could no specific
numbers, the general thinking seems to be that tighter is better.
You lose a lot of power through that gap.
What I'm most concerned about however is that you say you can push
the cylinder toward the trigger (did you mean hammer?). If so,
this condition should be remedied before any other work is done.
[ ... ]
Yes, the 9 shot pistol is a sportsman. In very good condition. And it
is quite accurate. And you are right about the other cylinder. I meant
to say hammer, not trigger. The reason for the back and forth play of
the cylinder appears to be that it is just too short. It measures .016
shorter than the space it fits into. Wear could have occured on the
indexing teeth but I think that's unlikely. Besides, with shells in
the cylinder the movement towards the hammer is limited. So it appears
that the the thing was made with the large gap between the cykinder
and the barrel.
I've seen cylinders on some guns with a turned bushing
surrounding the locking pin (or one at the front of the cylinder,
holding it back against the frame). This controls the rearward motion.
Yours may have such a bushing which is now badly worn. It may be
possible to machine a replacement bushing, if the existing one is/was a
press fit.
Note that if you unscrew the barrel, and face it enough to take
up that slop, you will wind up with the front sight off to one side, as
the barrel will have to rotate somewhat to screw in far enough to fix
your clearance problem. And if it the barrel happens to be octagonal (I
don't know your particular weapon), only certain positions can accept a
replacing of the front sight.
What I might try, assuming that the barrel has an unthreaded
portion projecting into the cylinder hole in the frame, is to turn up a
collar which is a slip fit on the rear of the barrel, and then closes in
to the OD of the projectile (assuming that the rifling is well enough
centered in the barrel -- otherwise, the hole might need to be a bit
larger). You could experiment with aluminum to see what affect it has.
(Don't let anyone stand to the sides while you do this.) If it works
properly, machine some steel to the proper size, and then blue it before
or after pressing it onto the rear end of the barrel.
You might want to chamfer the hole, so it will help to guide the
bullet into the barrel if the cylinder is slightly out of time. (The
barrel probably has such a chamfer.)
Good Luck,
DoN.
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