..

5- shorted to 8 & 12 --- this pin in connected to ground on neck
board
6- green gun
7-
8- Red gun The SHORTED one
9- heater
10- heater
11- blue gun
12- shorted to 5&8 --- this pin in connected to ground on neck
board

I'll confirm these pins tomorrow
Roy

Where are G1 (brightness) and G2 (screen)?


I rechecked the tube and Pins are correct as labeled. Pin 7 has 270+
volts
on it. There are 2 pins in the 'key' that have wires running back to the
flyback. I dont know G1 from G2 with them being labeled for me. This
flyback has 3 adjustments though...screen,and what appears to be 2 focuses
(focii?)

I was able to clear the short to pin 8 ,the red, (charged a 150 uf cap to
200 vdc) 5 and 12 remain connected. dont know if they should be.
The pics still looks pretty bad, alot of red and blue. I suppose cutoff
is
controlled in the service menu huh.
No pots on board. This is the newest tv ive ever worked on!
I'll push on slowly.
Thanks for the replys,
Roy


picture went red again after about 5 minutes of running. I zapped it again.
It shows clear when checked with an ohmmeter but goes red with retrace a few
seconds after I turn it on. It must short as it heats up. pin 8 has about
100 volts on so its not a dead short. I put 3.7 volts on heater pins to
simulate running and checked red cathode resistance, but no shorts. also
noticed inside the neck of tube is not glowing very bright when I applied
power to heaters compared to how bright it is when set is turned on. Does
heat come from the guns themselves or from a short I have in tube?
Also when I ground blue cathode...screen is solid blue.
when I ground red cathode.... no change since screen is already red.
when I ground green cathode... NO CHANGE screen still red.
Is this tube screwed completely? I get no continuity between any pins
except the heaters.
Still messing with it.
Roy

(pin 7 is screen)