On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 02:05:17 GMT, "Charlie S."
wrote:

You bring up a lot of points that I've been mulling around in my head.
Specifically, do I really need an expensive saw for what I am doing. Not
really. I was even looking at $99 model at Sears and thinking that may do
the trick. It might have been a 10" saw. My main concern is finding a saw
that will cut/tilt along the diagonal for I need to cut up two 4x4 or 4x6's
to make a matching angle. Like this /\.

Haven't tried it recently, but I'm pretty sure a 10" saw will cut a
4x6. If it doesn't cut all the way through, you *can* flip the peice,
and bring the blade down into the kerf (the area that has been sawed
out) without the blade running to re-align it, lift it while holding
the piece in place, and recut. It's an extra step, but pretty easy
once you've done it once or twice.

The other thing to consider is replacement blades. Everywhere has 10"
blades in a variety of brands and types. Most places will have one or
two 12" blades on hand, but they are a lot more expensive and your
options become very limited very quickly.

Will I make it a hobby? It's tough to say right now. Even if I did, I
wouldn't need it for any fine work, as I am not that mechanically inclined.
I do need something that will cut a 4x4 or 4x6 at an angle and mitre. I
will also need to cut some 2x10 or 2x12s', but like you said I could use my
circular saw for that. I'll look into a folding mitre saw stand. That way
it wouldn't take up too much space for storage.

Just curious, a couple people mentioned the fence in their replies to me.
You mentioned 'adjust the fence'. What is the fence?

The fence is the vertical surface that you hold the wood against when
you make the cut. To check it (once you've decided on a saw), make a
sample cut (just a little sliver off the end of some scrap works fine)
and check it with a square. If the sample piece isn't square, loosen
the bolts on the back of the fence, and give the side that needs it a
little tap, then tighten and recheck. This can get tedious, but once
it's done properly, the saw will usually stay right on unless it's
dropped or otherwise mishandled.

When you're mating two pieces as described, getting the fence aligned
properly right away will save you a lot of headaches. Be picky when
you're doing it- as an example, if you're off by 1/2 a degree when
making something like a picture frame, it may not seem like much when
you've got three peices laying on the table in front of you- 1/2 a
degree isn't much, after all. But when you place the fourth piece in
the mix, you'll find that the half degree error repeated four times
ends up being three tight joints, and one with a 2 degree gap, which
sticks out like a sore thumb, and makes it hard to clamp together
properly.