George wrote:
Don't expect this to go over well with the "I use my (big-name grind or
alloy here) gouge for everything" set. Some folks will go to any length to
defend an expensive purchase.

charlie b responded
When I was making jewelry - on a budget - I knew folks who
bought every WhipZam New & Improved Custom Deluxe machine,
tool and device that came along and seemed to assume that the mere
possession of them would automatically make them a better
jeweler. All too often the thing didn't a) live up to the hype
in the ads and b) the owner usually didn't follow the limited
"instructions" that came with it, if it was read at all.

In most instances I've learned that expensive tools don't make
up for a lack of knowledge, skills and abilities (and I've bought
more than my share of that stuff - as those of you who also
are in rec.woodworking know) - or - take just as long to
learn to use them properly as the "not as good" machine/tool
and may not yield better results.

Arch wrote:
Does he mention where to buy a deep 'V' or 'U' fluted drop forged carbon
steel 'bowl' gouge?

Where to buy? No. In fact, he doesn't mention ANY brand names/
manufacturers. But he did describe why a deep "U" cross section
is safer to use than round stock with a semi-circle ground into it.
The deep "U" is less apt to catch/ dig in than the ground semi-circle
grind because of the 90 degree corners at the top of the "U".. It's
more apt to scrape than dig in

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Some of us find alloy steel gouges with deep 'V' or 'U' flutes, that
sport drawn back edges with high sounding names to be quite helpful.

I'm familiear with flat backed cutting tools with a straight cutting
edge - plane irons and bench chisels. With them, there's a trade
of between toughness and hardness.- if it's tough you need to touch
up the edge more often. If it's hard, when the edge chips rather
than dulls and it takes a lot longer to restore the edge. Having a
stone on the bench keeps the work flowing smoother than having
to stop and grind/ Scary Sharp or go through 3 or four grits of
stones.

I'll admit that I'm guilty of continuing to use a cutting tool after
the edge is dulled. And I have the luxury of having a set of old
Bucks, the blue handled Marples, Two Cherries and a set of
Crown butt chisels. And I've got spare irons for several of my
hand planes. To be even guiltier, I've got a Tormek, diamond
plates AND a set of Japanese waterstones so I have no excuse.
(drive by gloat is coincidental)

With turning tools however, the price tags preclude having
four of each one and some of the profiles are not easily
"touched up" at the bench and often require special jigs
to sharpen them. So with the limited turning tools I've
got (so far), I wait 'til I have several that really, really,
really need sharpening (ie - won't work worth a damn)
before I stop and go set up for sharpening.

That brayed, I sure like and use my old Sorby Sheffeld steel and my old
original Buck Brothers' carbon steel tools.

In the long run, it's eaier and quicker to maintain an edge
than to restore one.


Patriarch wrote:
Arch, I'm not charlieb, but I read the article twice. Darlow doesn't say
'don't use these', but 'be aware of the compromises made', and 'use them
within their limits'. He also indicates several user mods that might help.

Thanks for adding that point. The problem for me, as a newbie to
woodturning, is being nearly clueless as to what the limitiations
are, let alone how to stay within them. The article fills in some
of the major gaps in my knowledge and understanding of turning
tools mechanics/physics.

Sit tight & dry, there in Florida, sir.

Amen to that.

charlie b