In article ,
"JEB" wrote:
Would melting old candles and apply the wax to the ends do the same job?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I use both melted wax and the liquid, wax-emulsion sealer (Anchorseal,
"endgrain sealer", etc.) for slowing the drying of wood.
For the melted wax, I use a shallow electric kitchen fryer (about 12"
sq. x 3" deep), obtained from the local thrift store for a couple bucks
to melt down candle odds and ends. My wife will buy old taper and pillar
candles at yard sales for a dollar or two and I add these as my wax gets
used up. (BTW, there's no need to peel labels or worry about the wick as
the wax certainly won't stay clean from the bark and such falling into
it anyway.) This method is used for all wood that can be easily handled
while dipping the ends into the pool of hot wax - and is small enough to
fit the fryer. I tried brushing on the melted wax, but it cooled so
quickly on the wet wood that the wax just chipped off in sheets. When
the wood is dipped, I hold it in the wax for a couple, three, four
seconds and then pull it out and allow the excess to drip off. After
about 10 minutes of cooling time I dip a second time but just a quick in
and out to add a second layer. This is done only to the endgrain and
about an inch up the sides. If you encapsulate the wood in wax there
will be no drying whatsoever - which could be what you're after if it's
a highly reactive wood to drying stresses. (In North America, many fruit
trees have this characteristic.)
The wax-emulsion gets used when the wood is too large to dip into the
melted wax container. I generally brush the emulsion on with a cheapo
80-cent utility brush. Two coats work better for longer term storage and
you'll be surprised at just how far a gallon of the stuff can go.
Overall, I've found the hot wax dip to be superior to the brushed
emulsion. That could be due to the superior coating in every nook and
cranny and wax thickness the dip process yields.
Keep in mind that if the wood is left in log form it's practically
inevitable that it'll crack in time - it's just the way the drying
forces work on the wood and it's structure. Also, keep the bark on if
you want to retain as much moisture in the wood as possible. However, if
you check on your stash and see bugs making a condominium out there,
peel it off. If you store your wood outdoors, cover loosely with a
waterproof tarp or some such covering. If you store inside, keep in a
cool location *without* a lot of air movement; the more humid the better.
Also, how long will it take for the logs to get dry enough to turn? (dry -
as in not green wood that would not warp considerably after turning like
green turned bowls do). My basement is fairly dry with a constant
temperature of around 65 degrees. I say fairly dry-- I have a cement floor
in the basement with a (submerged) sump pump but also run a dehumidifier (I
have my workshop down there).
Dry enough to turn? No such thing. I look at it a different way: is the
wood too dry to have an enjoyable turning experience? Dress in your
worst clothes, don your face shield and begin turning immediately. The
wood is a joy to work when it's wet - much easier cutting and
substantially less dulling on the tool edges. Be forewarned though - the
spinning wood will spray a stripe of water on you, the lathe, back wall
and the ceiling - some folks hang shower curtains to form a little
"room" to contain the wet shavings and flung water. Read up on turning
green wood as you may need to turn it twice before you end up with what
you're after.
--
Owen Lowe
Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.
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