Christopher Tidy wrote:
Hi all,

I've been using a stick welder for occasional hobby projects for about 9
years now (the welder is a Cytringan Bantam 180 amp oil-cooled unit).
I've mastered butt welds and can achieve an even bead with neat
restarts, but I can't quite get fillets right. I've tried varying the
current, moving the electrode slowly up and down, following the
instructions regarding angle in my welding book etc., but my fillets
still contain small slag inclusions. I'm using E 6013 electrodes and 3-5
mm thick 43A mild steel plate (these might both be British-only
standards). Now I find that I'm designing my projects so as to avoid
fillet welds. Can anyone suggest how to improve my fillet welds, or do I
just need more practice?

Isn't 6013 a drag rod? Try no weave at all, just a straight motion right down
the axis. Watch the puddle, not the arc. Remember, a fillet weld requires a bit
more current than a flat weld because the current has to flow two ways. Make
sure your puddle flows evenly on both sides of the fillet. The best way to
conquer this is not to avoid it, but rather to practice. You may find it easier
if you support your left arm on an armrest and use it to support your right arm,
assuming you're right-handed. Get your body comfortable, don't sway around. I
often sit down when a weld is critical. Turn off the welder and do a dry run on
the movement until you can support your hand throughout its range of travel --
don't forget, the electrode gets shorter! Flip up your filter and look through
your hood and make sure you can see across the range too. Don't squeeze the
electrode holder, that will make your muscles shake -- a light grip is all you
need. I have to admit, I've little or no experience with 6013, I went from 6011
to 7014 to 7018 and now sometimes I use 6010. If 6013 isn't a drag rod, try
7014, it's a dead easy rod to run.

GWE