Will wrote:
In article ,
says...
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:
Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it
But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing
the chimney?
Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual
extractor, and the plug is under the chimney.
You really are desperately looking for something to crib about
aren't you?
I have to say, I think that he is right to "crib", if I
understand his situation correctly...
It appears from his posts that in order to isolate the hood, he
has to partly dismantle it. In the event of a fault, there may not be
time, particularly if tools are needed to do so...
In addition, since most modern hoods seem to be double insulated,
a fault where the hood (if it's metal) comes live, by virtue of a
faulty cable, for instance, could prove difficult to overcome without
switching off at the consumer unit.
Placing isolators for kitchen appliances in an adjacent cupboard
is frowned upon by some, but placing them out of easy reach iirc does
not meet current regs...
See, that's what I was getting at I think. On our old kitchen, there was an
FCU(?) next to the hob that would switch off the power to the extractor.
That's what I would have preferred. I'm interested in what you say about
current regs, so i'm going to get an electrician friend to take a look.
Thanks for the reply.
Dan