"thumbs" wrote in message
...

Have similar rust problems that have been discussed in threard. Anyone
have ideas removing the rust from cast iron saw tops, jointers
etc. Also I find it on most of my planes and hand tools. Some are
pitted and I would like to find a cure-all rust remover and preventer,
if such a fantasy exists.
Would welcome any suggestions.
Thumbs


000 or 0000 steel wool, elbow grease, followed by a liberal coat of
Johnson's Paste wax. Reapply the paste wax at regular intervals.

Some, from time to time, have suggested some exotic blends, like the wax
used on bowling lanes and some of the silicone formulas. While I haven't
tried them, I'd guess we're really talking about length of time between
re-applications, and not overall performance. Johnson's paste wax is
relatively cheap and it works.

WD-40 certainly has it uses, but it's been my experience that WD-40 will
eventually dry out and leave a "varnish" on tools. (For some tool, this
might be desirable, if the tool is used in a greasy environment and the
varnish actually helps with the grip, but I have my doubts)

For me, I've been known to run greasy handtools through the dishwasher,
using plain old dishwashing soap, then immediately coating them using a
slightly oily rag. The machine and the soap are specifically designed to
remove food grease, it works just as well on petroleum grease. BTW, this
should be a very, very light coating of oil, practically invisible to the
naked eye. It should not leave a significant stain when laid on a sheet of
newspaper.

Needless to say, this procedure is NEVER accomplished while SWMBO is in
residence.

Top end tools, like Snap-on, etc, have such a heavy chromium coat, it's been
my experience that they won't rust during a life time of non-Trade
(mechanic) usage. Older Craftsman-level tools, do require attention from
time to time. It's my opinion, that Craftsman-level tools are the best
value for the non-professional, but for a serviceable lifetime, must be
addressed from time to time.

Older, non-chromium plated hand tools can be brought back by removing all
rust, (steel wood or a wire wheel, if necessary) and then using the
dishwasher method to remove grime. By the way, I would add a second step,
here. After a through cleaning, I've found that navel jelly can be used in
some instances, to return the tool to the darker surface, that is
commonplace on the old tools. Again, the jelly must be thoroughly removed,
and the oil rag used to prevent future rust.

I would, also, caution about such anal-retentive measures on any tool with
rubber grips. Hard water stains can be virtually eliminated by adding Jet
Dry and a touch of Lime Away. (If you're stupid enough to use this on
electrical tools, please remove yourself from the gene pool, immediately).

Sometimes, it depends on other factors. I am cheap. I will willing pay for
commercial level tools, but I like to keep them in as pristine condition as
possible. So, a new tool, (if appropriate), say an electric drill, will
receive a coat of Armor-all, especially on the plastic surface, immediately
on purchase. Armor-all (and there are other such products) more or less
repels dirt and grease.

Hand planes are completely different kettle of fish. For working planes (as
opposed to display planes), break them down to their individual components,
removing the handles completely. Remove the planes from the washer, before
the drying cycle and hand dry each component, with a clean soft rag.
THOROUGHLY dry each component. Then, coat each component, individually with
the wax. The process will remove any dirt and grime (from the smallest
crevasses) that may have accumulated over time. It will closely resemble a
plane. If you fail to thoroughly dry the item, it will closely resemble a
mass of rust. (Of course, this method will remove most of the patina highly
prized by collectors, and is a great way to take an expensive collectable
plane and reduce it's value significantly).

One "old-timer" has taught me a valuable lesson for garden tools. His
ancient shovels and hoes are in magnificent condition. He thoroughly cleans
them after every use, (no matter how minor), and again uses an oily rag. At
least once a year, every wooden handle is re-coated with linseed oil. BTW,
his tools are very slowly disappearing. He sharpens his shovels and hoes
just as any craftsman would sharpen a saw. There is a small, but
perceptible ease when using his tools, as compared to blunt tools most use.