If at all possible avoid the sharp inside corner. If any impact
at all part will start to crack there. Also hard to machine.
How big a radius can you stand? If you have rotary table and
milling capability it should be possible to do with an end mill.

Most of the spindex units I have seen have a color that can
prevent in/out movement. If you are careful to always do a
conventional cut and possibly add a long handle you should be
able to rig up this up as a lathe job.

You can put a piece of 1 inch or larger rod in the chuck and
drill/ream a 3/8 hole to fit the shank of an end mill. Drill/tap
for set screw for weldon shank before you clamp in chuck to
preserve run-out accuracy.

Also how many parts?

GmcD

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 18:54:29 GMT, (John
Flanagan) wrote:

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 20:24:27 +0200,
(=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Nick_M=FCller?=) wrote:

John Flanagan wrote:

I've got a part I need to machine (repeatedly) and was wondering if
anyone might make a suggestion for an effective and inexpensive
method. A photo of the cut that needs to be made can be found he

Does the part really have to look that way? I would say that the
designer has only seen a shop from the outside.

Ow, that hurts :^). But yes, it does. The part rotates in a sleeve.
The 90° cutout allows the part to rotate but it's rotation is limited
by a pin placed in the sleeve.

I've made these before just by chucking it in a fixed 5C holder on the
mill and by unchucking, rotating a little and then rechucking. Time
consuming PITRE plus it makes an ugly faceted surface. I was looking
for some method that would be faster and give a nice smooth surface
where the cutout meets the cylinder.


John

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