Maybe even consider a whole house standby generator and power conditioning
system. Have the generator installed by a licensed electrical contractor
with an automatic switching if you lose the company supplied power. The
power conditioning system should be able to handle the 240 AC input for the
supplier, filter and condition it to minimize much for the variation you are
experiencing. Again a job for the professionals.
"DBLEXPOSURE" wrote in message
...

"Day Brown" wrote in message
...
I live out in the ozark boonies, at the very end of the grid with
really dirty power and lotsa lightning on the lines strung out hundreds
of feet above the valley floors.

And now, we've got the 3rd UPS crap out in 2 years. Getting old.
Besides, the usual 20 minutes backup sux. Power's often out for 1/2 hour
or more.

Well, I could hook up an inverter to run the systems off, and then hook
up a large battery charger to keep the battery fully charged. But, now, I
wonder if it wouldnt make more sense to yank the PC power supply out
of the case, and use two 12 volt car batteries in series to run the PC
motherboard with a 24 volt charger. Gonzo more efficient.

Center tap the series to get the +12 and the -12 the motherboard wants,
and then use DC-DC converters to get the +5,-5, and the +3.3 vdc...
but given the amps on the +5 and +3.3vdc, it'd be nice to use 24vdc to
power the DC converters. the high amp low voltage DC converters are
kinda expensive. And besides, I got plenty of room under this desk; it
could be the size of a shoebox or more. I dont see any sense in paying
more for something they designed to fit in a rack frame.

So, lessee if this makes sense. use a low frequency oscillator. That way,
if it aint oscillating, I can *hear* that, and dont havta drag out
the scope. so what if it needs a bigger ferrous core. Horse shoes aint
expensive. I got hundreds of feet of 12 awg wire. Got some 25 amp full
wave bridges. Use lotsa iron and copper and quit worrying about fast
snubbers to protect the MOSFETs.

And, between the gauss of, say a 10 amp 24 volt charger, and the ability
of the car batteries to soak up spikes, lighting would havta fry the
wires in the wall before it'd crash the system.

Any other hints?


Well, you could spend a lot of time and money doing that but I'm not sure
if the homeowner's insurance will cover the fire damage.



Or



http://www.apc.com/resource/include/..._sku=SU3000NET



You didn't mention how large your load is, there are larger models. They
come with a warranty and a connected equipment guarantee.



I think you just need the correct UPS for the job. This is just one
example.



Here is a runtime chart. Figure out your load pick how much runtime you
want and get out your checkbook. Runtime gets expensive.. Usually, the
idea is to buy enough runtime to give you time to get things shut down
properly.



http://www.apc.com/products/runtime_...?upsfamily=165


I think if you try to get by on the cheap, you'll get what you pay for.