Nehmo wrote:
If a house currently has multiple window air-conditioners, are these
significantly less efficient than central air, if the house were
retrofitted with it? (NO)
I realize the comparison is complicated, so assume all other factors
equal, and assume: the vents and their position for central air would be
adequate; "about half the rooms are normally in use;" nobody's concerned
about the window-view obstruction, etc.; Chicago climate; poorly
insulated house. (Just cool the rooms you use.)
A companion question is, does the efficiency of air conditioners
increase significantly with size? (NO!)
In your situation, I would improve the insulation situation and do
everything possible to the windows and doors to reduce the heatgain.
Also, do everything possible to reduce air infiltration.
Then I would go with the newer smaller 6000-Btu/hr quiet window units;
like the Whirpool Quiet Partner Series with electronic cordless controls.
Using a "Wind Machine 3300 | 20" fan," my little 6000 room A/C cools
920-sq. ft., three open rooms and part of the hall in 100-degree high
humidity 112 to 116-heat index weather, --to 78-F or under and 55 or
less percent relative humidity; very comfortable. Read my linked page
on how that works:
new
http://www.udarrell.com/aircondition...harting.h tml
My July electric bill was $45.10; I have an electric hot water heater,
electric range, a refrigerator, two TVs and a PC.
I never use my old clothes dryer.
My upstairs unit is a Kenmore Cool 'N' Lite 5,950-btuh window A/C, by
using another 20" floor fan on low speed, it cools one bedroom, the
hallway, stairwell, and the bathroom.
I have central oil heat in a two-story home with a deep basement that
was built in May of 1937, 68 years ago. The duct system was installed
for a gravity airflow wood fired furnace. - udarrell - Darrell
--
Factors in the Correct Sizing of Residential Air Conditioning Systems -
Recommended Procedures for Proper Duct Sizing of Residential Air Conditioning Systems
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_b...syste ms.html