Bud wrote:
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert wrote:



I like to know that answer as well. Is a 15amp receptacle the same as
a 20amp receptacle except for the keying? I would bet the answer is yes.
....

So now you have the receptacle passing more current that its rated for,

but the breaker and wiring are fine. So I agree that the receptacle
must be rated for the full 20amps if its to be plugged into a 20amp
circuit, REGARDLESS of the keying.

15A receptacles are rated 20A for both halves. The UL standard tests
them at 150% of rating, which I presume means 1/2 a 15A duples
receptacle is tested at 22.5A. Posts in other threads have said that 15
& 20A receptacles are identical, including sockets for 20A plugs behind
the 15A plastic face.

And for this same reason I completely disagree with the 10amp switch
statement. A 10amp switch on a 20amp circuit has no protection and is
a danger. Can't say if its legal as I am not electrician.

As HorneTD has said in a number of threads, the NEC requires the switch
has to be large enough for the load. If a switch is connected to a light
fixture, it would be a little difficult to lamp it at over 1200W, the
rating for a 10A switch. Going through my box of salvaged switches I
found several with a 10A 120V rating. The NEC is a pragmatic code; if
there are problems the code is changed to deal with them.

Bud--



And this is why we have Murphy's Law. You don't size the switch to the
intended load. You size the switch so it can't cause a fire. If that
fixture endures a resistive short, and its passing 15A, not enough to
blow the breaker, but too much for the switch, you have a serious
problem. So I guess NEC needs an updating wrt/ Murphy's Law.


--
Respectfully,


CL Gilbert