"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 May 2004 19:39:00 +0100, "G&M" wrote:


"OldScrawn" wrote in message
...
I usually find it impossible to
get a perpendicular cut on thick items - the blade always seems to
wander
off on its own path on the underside.


The secret is to steer by twisting the saw along the axis of the blade,
and
resist any temptation to apply sideways forces (like you would to steer
a
panel
saw).

And to get a professional jigsaw. I never realised there was so much
difference until advised to do so here.


Yep. Many have been surprised by this, including me.


Well the bank holiday is over, and so are my kitchen worktop worries! This
was one job that I was a bit reluctant to tackle myself, so thanks to
everyone here for all the advice and encouragement.

The router and jig combination made cutting the mitres incredibly easy; the
simple straight cuts I did with a circular saw.

The joins are barely noticeable - easily as good as any professional would
have managed, and at a fraction of the cost. I am one happy DIYer this
morning :-)

The total cost for 42ft of Axiom gloss laminate worktop and the tool hire
came to £550, and the work involved cutting it into 8 runs including a
breakfast bar and two mitred joints. I'd hate to think what the labour cost
would have been even if I'd found anyone to do it!

As for the suggestion of using a jigsaw, I don't believe there is any way
that I could have achieved such a tight join with one. The blade would have
had to be perfectly vertical, with no bending, and I would have had to steer
it on a perfectly straight line - all things that I have never managed to do
before. In contrast, the jig that I hired (a good quality one by Trend) was
very simple and quick to set up, and the router breezed through making a
perfect cut without causing a single chip in the laminate.

The only hassle this weekend was with the new sink, which despite claiming
to fit a 1000mm unit, was actually 20mm too long - they obviously forgot
that the sides of base units are not infinitely thin, and that you lose 15mm
of that 1000 at each end! Anyway, after cutting the hole as long as I could
with a jigsaw, some careful use of the router managed to clear enough space
for the sink to fit.

So, based on my experience, I'd recommend the following to anyone else
wanting to do the same:

1) Use a jig and router for professional-looking mitred joints.

2) The other straight cuts can be done with a circular saw - always cut with
the worktop laminate side down, with the post-formed edge at the front.

3) Use biscuits to align the connecting pieces vertically.

4) Make sure the pieces are aligned properly before tightening up the
worktop connecting bolts, and don't do them up too tight - the chipboard
core will compress but the laminate won't! (I spotted this in time, so
didn't actually do any damage, but it would be easy to crack or lift the
laminate at the join if you're not careful)

5) Cut the worktops outside - the tools generate a tremendous amount of
sawdust!

6) If it's a sunny day, apply sunscreen - you'll be out there longer than
you think :-(

Bob
(Who now has a sunburnt head but a happy SWMBO!)