In article .com,
wrote:
"levers protrude
partially through the cavity floor, to press against the
spindle
flange. "
This is the problem I'm pretty sure after staring at it for an hour and
taking it apart over and over. I started thinking. Funny how that
seems to help sometimes. The levers arn't touching the flange because
the flange is too forward for this closer. I suspect when they sold
us the machine they gave us one that didn't fit.
I borrowed one from another shop and it also didn't work. The tube
seems to be just a bit too long or the flange is too far forward.
The quick-and-dirty fix (if the drawtube is not too much too
long) would be to make a washer to go inside the cavity to space it just
enough out to give you a reasonable adjustment range on the collet. (I
would suggest that at the proper size, the collet should be in about 2/3
of its threads, to give adjustment range and strength. This should be
no larger than the diameter between two opposite notch bottoms.
I would probably make one a little too thick, of 4140, and then
harden it and surface grind it to the right thickness.
A second (and better) solution would be to make a replacement
flange which is enough longer than the original so the collet tightens.
(you could determine the required length by trying the spacer above.) I
would make the flange out of a good hardenable steel (say 4140), and
harden and temper it so the notches won't wear with time, and eventually
have enough of a slope to disengage the tilting key.
Another better solution would be to turn off some length from
the end of the drawtube, but this might mean that you would have to
extend the bore and the threads at the end. And, I'm not sure how easy
it would be to separate the drawtube from the rest of the mechanism to
allow it to be chucked and turned.
I had to do the reverse when I switched from a 2-1/4x8 threaded
spindle nose to an L-00 spindle nose. I had to make an extender for the
threads, to move them about an extra inch. At least, that was plenty of
length so the internal threads did not risk running into the external
threads which mated with the original. I used a 6-jaw chuck to minimize
chucking distortion of the extension while I was boring and threading
it.
Once you have made an extension (not you in this case for your
problem), degrease the threads and Loctite the extension in place, so
you don't wind up with the extension trapping a collet in the nose
adaptor. *That* is a pain to get clear. :-)
Thanks everybody for taking the time for my latest problem
You're welcome.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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