Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
news wrote:
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner
and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type
spanner with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and
deflection. the flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my
case buckled the tank.

But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line
with the 'nut'.

I tried that - it made the problem worse.

heat *is* beter than penetrating oil and if you slacken the outlet on
top of the tank (after cutting off the cold feed, obv) you only get
whatever water is held in the tube (half a litre) escaping rather
than the gallons that escape if you just crack the element and
unscrew it (been there, done that)

Well, there shouldn't be much leakage - if any - if you just break the
'seal'. You can tighten it up afterwards if there is, then drain down
enough to remove it.

I suspect you haven't actually done 'it'

cylinders are gravity fed ... pressure from the bottom forces the water
out of the top, not t'other way round. the element is fitted to the tank
about 8" below the top of the cylinder. remove the element and that
water /has/ to go somewhere.

I then cut the hot outlet 22mm at centrepoint and added a 22mm copper
pushfit joint to allow me to rotate the hot outlet pipe clear of the
top of the cylinder. I then syphoned out enough water to clear the
element hole.

Hopefully there should be a drain cock at the bottom of the cylinder?
If not, and you've got to do some plumbing, fit one.

deffo haven't done it.

it's hot, I'm tired, but the OP should get the picture ;-)

There are many different ways to approach this problem and all
welcome. ;-)

aye, tis true.



RT