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John Rumm
 
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kiich wrote:

yeah kind of! i saw that as well - but mine must be an older model as i
do not have the red switch like the on on the web.

So i have to manually open it right?


If you want to get into it...

(although see other comments regarding the room stat first)

thanks ;-) i wasnt sure because i have never seen a 2 port valve - but
should have guessed mine is 3 port! thanks.


Looks like:

http://www.sunvic.co.uk/2pmv.html

ok - so lets say i take off the cover from the box on top of the brass
- i should be expecting:

a) somekind of know or wheel that indicates what the valve is set


Possibly, but not always.

b) these settings a CH, HW and CH/HW - correct? or is CH,HW and
auto?


You may only have the choice of CH or HW on the valve. If that is the
case when he programmer asks for CH & HW the valve will just do HW.

c) i should be able to turn the know/wheel to CH only and test if i get
CH


You will probably need to take the motor off the shaft coming out of
valve body first...

and lets say i can take off the motor completely (you mean the box
sitting on the brass right?) and i turn it manually and place it back
on and start again - if i still have no CH, i call a plumber to
replace the valve right?


Not necessarily. If the valve is a mid position type (rather than a
simple spring return one) then you need to prove that the request that
puts the valve into the CH position is actually getting there. Since
without that you would get the symptoms you are seeing and the valve
itself may actually be fine.

kiichi - when you say CH programmer, you mean the "7 day immersion
heater timer" ?


No, I mean the time switch. ("programmer" may be a bit over egging the
description for some of the older boiler time switches!)

i had a look last night and i can only see 1 cable coming from the7 day
immersion heater.


Many of the immersion time switches carry the full load current of the
immersion heater. Hence you would expect to usually have a pair of hefty
T&E cables coming in and out of the controller.

ok - so the only thing that i can feel by touching the pipes that are
not hot (enough) is one of the pipe coming out of the valve towards
"central heating" - so must be the valve set to HW only?


Yes.

Or does the pipes for CH not get that hot??


Nope, it should get as hot as the pipe going into the valve (or the one
going currently to the cylinder)



ok - well it isnt.


Tis because the valve is in the HW only position.

Either because it is knackered, or something that ought to be telling it
to do something other than HW is knackered!

thanks - wish me luck


Good luck!


--
Cheers,

John.

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