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wrote:
Hi,

I'm planning to renovate my kitchen this Fall, and in an effort to
save money, I want to paint the existing cabinet frames, and purchase
and paint new cabinet doors. The existing cabinets are custom-built
Oak, with a honey-stain and satin(?) clear finish, which I assume is
polyurethane.

To prep the frames for painting, I see several options: (1) strip off
the clear finish chemically, (2) sand the clear coat finish, (3) take
my chances and try to prime directly to the finish, or (4) etch the
finish. Options 1 and 2 will make a big mess, but I don't really trust
3, and don't know much about 4. Anyone have experience "etching" a
finish to make it primer-ready? What products would you recommend?

Tri-sodium phosphate (TSP)
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To get a good paint job, I plan to prime with BIN (2 coats), paint
with water-based flat paint (2 coats), then finish with Minwax
Polycrylic water-based semi-gloss clear finish (1 coat). I've
experimented with this combination and it looks nice, and seems to be
much more durable than paint alone. If anyone has comments or
suggestions about this plan, let me know.

Well, flat latex is certainly better than a gloss or semi-gloss since it
is semi-sandable due to all the talc in it but basically I can't see how
anybody expects to get a good finish on wood with *any* latex paint.

To me, a "good paint job" (on wood) is one that is smooth and uniform
regardless of the sheen. To get same, one starts with a smooth, primed
surface (sanded baby ass smooth), paints with something that self levels
well, smooths again, paints, etc. Latex is basically unsandable and
doesn't level well (always shows brush marks).

I understand why you want to clear topcoat with something harder but why
not just use a more suitable paint in the first place? An alkyd or
urethane paint...

--
dadiOH
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