toller wrote:
I like Flexner's book. He actually seems to know what he is talking ab=
out,=20
rather than just repeating what he has heard.
=20
But, I don't entirely agree with his claim that BLO can't be considered=
a=20
finish. For items that won't get wet or see much use, it is enough of =
a=20
finish. =20

Yah maybe so. The Minwax antique oil I have learned to like is=20
varnish/blo and it looks great on oak and cherry I have found.

The Deft (Polymerized tung) I mentioned seems to be pretty nice as well.

You're right -- seems to be a matter of protection -- and water=20
resistance mostly. Should be safe on book shelves and entertainment centr=
es.



I just did a large cherry cabinet, putting BLO everywhere, and a=20
few coats of varnish where it might get some wear. It was too large fo=
r the=20
basement stairs, so my son and I carried out the walkout basement door,=
=20
slightly scraping it on a rock in the process. A little fresh BLO, you=
=20
can't tell where the scrapes were. =20


Yeah repairs are the other issue. I have repaired varnish -- pita... Oil =

is much simpler -- agreed.


Try that with Varnish. (maybe shellac,=20
but Flexner doesn't think too much of shellac either.)
=20

Not true saw some sample finishes using shellac in this book iirc.


I "think" dye would have obsured the curl on the curly cherry, but it w=
ould=20
certainly be worth experimentation.=20

The Deft Tung Oil showed up some curl in the cherry and the maple on my=20
latest jewel box -- will post pictures on my site later tonite. Did not =

show up as well as a dye would have -- but then I did not even know it=20
was present...


=20
=20


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw