CNT wrote:

For years, I been using Elmer's WW'ing Glue. Then for about less than a
year, I stopped with WW'ing (school and other things). Now, I am back
(raised panels this time). As I was playing around with samples, I
realized all my glues (including the Gorilla) were all dried up. So, a
quick run to Rockler and bought a 4oz regular Titebond glue. I noticed
Titebond expand their selections. So, few questions for those who may
experienced the new stuff.

1) Titebond Dark Wood Glue, is it good for red oak? Just want to know if
it helps with the color or not?

2) Titebond Original Wood Glue, same thing as Elmer's WW'ing Glue.

3) Titebond II (and III) is for outdoor and waterproofing.

4) As I read the Titebond website, they even recommend wetting the
surface with water for the Original Glue. So, I should do the same for
Elmer's, just like Gorilla Glue emphasis it?

I have not used Gorilla Glue (only once, it was free). I wonder if I
should use Gorilla Glue for red oak, that it would act as a filler too in
gaps we overlook? Does the Gorilla Glue swell the work (move the wood?)
or it only bubbles out of joints?

I am feeling about switching to Titebond Original, but it's not an issue.

Chuck

I don't recall whether the Elmer's WW glue was a white or yellow glue--I
never liked the Elmer's I did use very much so haven't used any for so
long I don't recall.

All the yellow carpenters' glues are essentially the same w/ only slight
variations. The dark Titebond is ok, but never saw any real need--a good
glue line will essentially disappear anyway.

The Type II and III are designed for exterior or wet/damp applications.
There's not much difference between Type II and I for cost, but Type III
is quite a bit more expensive. No reason to spend the money unless you
have a specific need.

I recommend against the polyurethane glues unless, again you have a
specific need. The only real needs I see is for truly waterproof
applications and for oily woods where they perform better. These glues
do need moisture to cure. I've never seen a recommendation to wet a
surface for aliphatics--they're water-soluble before dry and don't
require moisture to dry/cure.

As for the filling properties of polyurethanes, they expand on drying,
but it's by a foaming action..it is not at all a filling material. To
expect it to cure a sloppy joint isn't going to happen. The foaming, in
fact, plus the very long open time is a prime reason I really don't like
using them at all.