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On Sat, 14 May 2005 13:38:12 +0100, Will wrote:

I have some Sony in-ear headphones. The lead to one earpiece has
been cut through completely and I want to rejoin the two wires
(which I will call 'conductors' to avoid confusion).

The two 'conductors' inside the lead are rather thin. And what is
more, each of the two 'conductors' is made up of something like a
dozen smaller copper wires which are woven around some very fine
threads (perhaps the threads are very fine polyester yarn). The
threads run along the lead as the core of the 'conductor'.

The wires of one of these two 'conductors' looks like bare copper
and is unoxidised so I can probably solder to it. But the OTHER
CONDUCTOR is the PROBLEM because its fine wires are enamelled.

How can I remove this enamel coating in order to be able to solder
to the fine copper wires of the 'conductor'?

Below is what I have tried.

Can you advise?

Will

----------------------------

Maybe my general technique is not delicate enough or maybe I am
being too clumsy but this is what I have tried with no success:

(1) Using fine glasspaper but it seems to tear the fine wires
rather than strip their enamel away. Even if the wires don't
break, there is still a portion of uncleaned enamel of the inner
sides of the fine wires.

(2) Using a match to burn off the enamel but this leaves a black
deposit which I have to scrape away with glasspaper and I am back
to the beginning.

(3) Using a gas flame always seems too fierce as it burns through
the wires.

----------------- END -----------------------------



It's easier and better to just replace the entire headphone cable.
Get oneoff a pair of cheapo headphones.(I get them for a buck at my
local dollar tree and just desolder the leads at the transducers.)
As for removing the varnish insulation you canuse a standard exacto
knife and gently scrape it away or a clean solder tip to burn it off.
Resolder the leads to the Sony transducer elements using a 20-30 watt
soldering pencil, any higher will just melt half the project.(You can
also use a hemostat clamped on the downside of the wire to act as a
heatsink to keep from melting any of the lead.)
Helps to use a good brand of flux and solder.(I use a high silver
content solder, not the 60/40 tin/lead stuff.)