"Sparky" wrote

Where the heating element is, there's 3 devices along there. The first one
is just where the heating element gets it's power from. Second in line is
what looks to be a thermostat, and finally, there's some other device
which I can't identify - that's probably the fuse you speak of.

The top one is the fuse, the one at the bottom is the high limit thermostat.
There is also a thermostat (or two) near the white plastic fuse. All should
show continuity on your ohmmeter.

Is there any switches or anything around the motor that I should check?

Sparky

The motor switch itself makes a circuit to the heater, there is also a
circuit through the timer. These are not usually problems but can be,
especially the timer with Kenmore brand Whirlpools. If you are not getting
240 volts at the heater terminals any of these could be the source of your
problem. The wiring diagram will show you which circuits to test on the
timer.

Did you test the heater element? Pull one of the wires off and check for
continuity across the terminals with your ohmmeter.

Did you test for 240 volts at the plug receptacle on the wall? If you have
240v, then unplug the dryer and follow the cord to the terminal block on the
back of the dryer. Lots of times a wire burns off the block and will cause
the dryer not to heat. The dryer will run on 120 volts but it will not heat.