Howard Neil wrote:
Do you know how to make a plunge cut? If so, notch on the side away from
the other trunks, then plunge cut to make the felling cut (the way you
would if felling a tree leaning at an acute angle). If you don't know
how to make a plunge cut, find someone to show you how. It is simple and
safe when done correctly but potentially dangerous if you do it wrong.


I'd been wondering if this might be a way to do it, it's certainly the
most sensible suggestion so far. I've done what are effectively
plunge cuts before but with nice static horizontal logs. I'll read up
on it and see if it sounds a safe option to try.


Just make sure that you start the cut with the bottom part of the nose.
Once the cut is deep enough, the tree itself will support the saw and
prevent kick-back. I would suggest that it is easier in a standing tree
because it is much more stable than a log and will resist any kick-back
better.

The technique is shown he-

http://international.husqvarna.com/node1470.asp

and on pages 21 and 22 of the Stihl manual which can be downloaded in
pdf form from:-

http://www.stihl.co.uk/html/default_...egory=chainsaw

Thanks for the links. I'll have to adapt what they say a bit because
the trunk is relatively small and I don't have access all around it of
course. However the basic way of starting a plunge cut should get me
to where I want to be.

--
Chris Green