Steven Briggs wrote:

Now, Andy / John, how did you finish off the eaves edge of the roof.
You've got rafters topped by ply, did you just let the felt form a drip
edge? Into a gutter? Did you doing anything to the ends of the rafters,
seems they'd be vulnerable to getting splashed from the gutter.

I did something similar to Andy - but slightly different

The eves were designed with a few inches of overhang, and the ends of
the rafters were sawn so as to leave a vertical edge at the end of the
roof. The ply on the roof was cut so as to be about an inch wider than
the overhang of the rafters. I then fixed a 2"x1" batten to the ends of
the rafters on both sides (a bit like a facia board). I also made up
short noggins and fixed those in place on the gable ends against the
underside of the ply overhang so as to create a "standoff" similar to
that provided by the eves, and then fixed more batten to that.

The effect was that the vertical serface of this facia was flush with
the edge of the roofing ply. The felt then draped over this facia.

I then screwed a second batten to the outside of the first *through* the
3 layers of felt overhanging the edge of the roof:


felt- /
/
##|##
outer ##|## - facia
batten- ##|##
|
|

This created a sandwich effect - with the felt clamped between the two
layers of wood. Finishing off was then just a matter of running a knife
along the underside of the batten to trim off the remaining felt (in
fact it could be torn off pretty neatly). You can see the result most
clearly he-

http://www.internode.ltd.uk/workshop/images/edges.jpg

The outside batten got a good soaking in cuprinol since it is the only
wood part that will get very wet every time it rains!

I think John mentioned in a post (or his excellent) site that a 30deg
roof looked wrong. That's what I was planning, but having looked e.g.
next door's summer house shed (off the peg style one) with a shallower
roof angle, I think you may be right. I'm now working on 22.5deg (next
stop on the mitre saw), lowers the ridge ~200mm and means I get 3
rafters out of a 4.2m length of timber.

I found the 30 degree roof looked wrong for two reasons - the main one
was that my workshop is right beside the shed in the next door garden.
Having the roof angles match made it look much better. The other reason
was I deliberately built my workshop so as to be quite a bit taller than
most ready made sheds since I wanted to be able to stand close to the
eves when inside (and I am 6'3") and still move bits of timber round, so
the lower angle reduced the overall height (and hence timber use and cost).

(one thing I did note - when the shed is still in its "skeletal" form
without cladding it looked HUGE - dwarfing the surrounding buildings -
but once the cladding and roof was on it looked much more in proportion.
So don't be put off if you think you have over done it half way through!)

The current material list includes 210m of 3x2, 285m of cladding and
285m of T&G floor / roof. Eeek. Over £1500 at list prices for all the
materials so far, so next its shopping round for a job lot price.

A couple of things jump out at me there... I had 135m of framing (plus a
further 37m of 2x4"), and 281m of cladding. So unless you are planning
lots of studs very close together you are going to need either less
framing, or more cladding (and you always need more cladding than you
think!)

You may want to compare dimensions with:-

http://www.internode.ltd.uk/workshop/plans.htm

Using T&G for the floor will push the price up as well. 19mm WBP ply
works very well at about 18 quid a sheet (I needed 3 IIRC)

http://www.internode.ltd.uk/workshop/tips.htm

I think I paid about 700 all in for the timber - it does pay in the end
to go to a builder merchant with a big list though, since I probably got
a couple of hundred off list price due to the size of the order. The
whole project cost was probably only 1500 - 1600 ish. Note also that
included a well over engineered base, and 200 odd quids work of
electrics that you can probably do without.



--
Cheers,

John.

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