Oh, the pulley can be removed, all right. I have worked with machinery drive
coupling halves of 1,400 lbs weight, with a 12" bore, 24" through the hub,
with a 2" square key. They are heated and installed with a .002 inch of
shrink fit for each inch of shaft diameter, being .024 undersize in this
case. Whenever removal is necessary, heat and a puller is used, same as most
cases, just a hell of a lot bigger hydraulic one. Hopefully the pulleys one
has aren't potmetal G In any case anti-sieze compound should be used for
this type of mechanical assembly. It makes installation and removal much
easier, and reduces broaching of the bore. In general, keys should be
pre-fitted by marking the "top" of the key to retain orientation. Fit the
key to the shaft by dressing key and shaft carefully with a file to match,
then fit key to hub using same method. Fit hub to shaft by polishing with
abrasive cloth, considering whether it will be a shrink or a slide fit. Mark
top of key of a slide fit with magic marker and attempt to install pulley
over it. Alternately, key height can be measured with the proper tools. If
it doesn't go, file the top of the key to remove scratch marks left by the
hub until it does. The height of the key should normally be the only factor
left at this point, barring unseen complications. This is a tried and true
millwright technique that works. I hope this can help someone along the way.

RJ, Millwright foreman of days gone by.

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 18:15:07 +0000, No Spam
wrote:

"toolguy" wrote:

Is there a
"trick" to getting snug fitting new pulleys on shafts? Any thoughts
to resolve this issue will be appreciated.


No need to use hammers or open out the holes. Just stick the pulleys
in a pan of boiling water for ten minutes - they will fly on easily.

...Never to be removed.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997