I'd say yes/no/maybe. Contact cement often works well, when-and-only-when it's
properly applied. But he has us guessing on the substrate here. Another issue
is the condition of the panels, their grain and their size. With large panels
that thick, you may have problems with contact cement if the grain is wild and
the panels are not sealed well, or maybe not. And if the substrate's wood and
some panels are large, and the cabinets already in place, it may be rather
difficult to use regular wood glue due to clamping issues, or maybe not. And
of course there's the warping due to any moisture applied to only one side,
which may be harder to deal with for 1/8 panels then for thinner laminate, or
maybe not.

About the only solid conclusion I can offer is that, when I tested them
side-by-side, the solvent-based contact cement is significantly stronger. I do
still use the water based stuff, but only on certain small jobs. I also
suspect that the solvent-based contact cement you used in '84 was better than
most stuff available today.

GerryG

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 16:45:19 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 09:09:22 -0600, the inscrutable Duane Bozarth
spake:

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin ...

That's not the right adhesive for the job...contact cement will not be
successful in the long run for the application. Been several letters to
editor in FWW over the last few years of veneer/finish failures after
using contact cement for veneer work.

Use a regular wood glue w/ perhaps a longer open time to provide more
spreading time.

Either glue works fine. I contact cemented my luaun door skins on my
kitchen cabinets in '84 or so and they were holding fast through
Feb of 2002, when I moved out. Oh, I used solvent-based contact
cement and do so today. I've heard too many horror stories to try the
waterborne crap.


-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
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