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Terry
 
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"Victor Roberts" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 19:44:12 GMT, "James Sweet"
wrote:


"Sean" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the answer. I was hoping to simply bypass the switch, but it
doesn't look like that is going to happen. I guess I'll have to replace

the
ballast after all.
Thanks, Sean


You can buy a glowbottle starter at any hardware store, usually under a
dollar.


But it must match his lamp. While the Op did not give us lamp data, he
indicated it was a 40-watt ballast. Therefore I am assuming the lamp
is a 40-watt or 34-watt lamp (until I get better information.) If the
OP lives in the US, I do not believe he can purchase a glow starter
for 40-watt lamps since they will not operate from 120 volt power
supplies.** if the OP lives in a part of the work where the normal
supply voltage is 220 to 240 volts, he should be able to find a glow
starter.

Not sure if that ** is correct? Reason is I have some older non working
older type fluorescents fixtures that I intend to update and respray that
have those little aluminum can type starters that definitely worked on 115
AC.
Some others have been converted to use the more modern type of ballast that
does not require starter.
In fact 50 years ago IIRC most/many f.fixtures used starters. They had/have
a little neon and a resistor inside and yes you had to have the right kind
of starter.
The more modern ballast without the starter (not the even more modern
electronic) is a lot more convenient. My reason for renovating older
fixtures is that I've got a lifetime supply of good used and new ballasts!
Also about 100 tubes (which are not that expensive anyway) at least 60% of
which are good! And other useful bits. All that is needed is a bit of
sanding a can of white spray paint and some time.
And also yes the simple fluorescent on top of our cooking stove has that
push and hold to start pre-heat type switch. The ballast for the fluorescent
in that, AFIK, is just a choke (series inductor)?
Have fun.