"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
George wrote:
"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...


For a sealer coat you don't normally want to use straight shellac - from
the can it's about a #3 cut. Sealer coats are usually #1 cut or less so
they penetrate and fill the pores a bit. A #3 cut will build on the
surface.

I haven't really noticed a significant difference in discoloration
between the shellac and the oil. Shellac is usually so yellow anyway
that it has more effect than the oil if anything.

I like the mineral oil, as it's food safe - sold as an 'intestinal
lubricant'. Many will argue that any finish is food safe after fully
cured. I won't disagree with that. But I know there's no japan driers
in mineral oil. Not so with BLO, or Tung Oil (unless they're 100%
Linseed Oil or Tung Oil, in which case they're more or less in the
non-curing camp along with the MO). When my customers ask me, I can
tell them w/good conscience that the oil is safe for human consumption...


"Straight" as with no oil, and as I mix my own , I use a 1# cut. If you're
getting as much color from your shellac as with a mix, try a different
shellac. I shop with Russ http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com/ and have
been satisfied with both product and service.

I guess you don't want to hear how a cured oil makes it possible to wash
away bacterial contamination, while an uncured oil shelters same for as long
as it's present.

I tell my customers not to eat the bowl.