On 10 Mar 2005 05:44:06 -0800, vaguely proposed a
theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I am wanting to build a small pole barn garage myself. The area is near
my blacktop turn around. I want to extend this turnaround with gravel.
My idea is to "box in" a 24 x 24 area with stakes and 2x6's. To put the
gravel in this for the pole barn floor. Then start building as I have
time and money. (I will not have a 2x6 in the front so I can put gravel
from my turnaround to the pole barn and use it for parking.

I worked the ground with a tiller last year and scraped with a tractor
bucket. It is more level than it was but not perfect.

Be careful here. It is easy to try to level with existing ground and
end up below level. Your shed then becomes a shallow swimming pool at
the wrong times. Your gravel being brought in is the better idea. Work
from just (150mm) above natural ground and go out flat from there.
That way you have a consistent floor material, and your inlet comes up
to it. You _will_ be amazed at how much gravel you need though! :-

10 m * 10 m , starting at one corner at 150mm and having a max fall of
0.5 metres is mmmmm.... 20 m^3 with 45 degree fall on the batters? You
may get away with "local dirt" for a bottom layer or two, but be
careful, and check first if you are every going to concrete the floor,
or the authorities are ever going to delve around.

Compact your worked "natural" ground very thoroughly before you start
adding.

What do you call "gravel"? I am concerned that it will _look_
compacted, if it's true gravel, but have no binding agent. This will
not compact well. There is usually a requirements for "fines" to bind
the the material. Here we use "yellow sand" a coarse sand with some
clay content for 99% of floors.

My FIL was a granno worker (cement floors) now retired, and a bloody
good one. His way (and mine when I had to do floors for him when he
did stuff for me G) to final level a floor was to create levels all
through it with rebar hammered in, then get in there with a shovel and
shuffle the gravel around to the levels. Work in maybe 1.5 - 2 metres
squares. Compact, then level again. Compact. It's up to you and the
local authorities as to how much of that you do! It's hard work, but
that final level with a machine is a real art that not many have
mastered. You can also work at your own pace.

Someone suggested using 2x around the edges and fill on the batter
sides. Sounds good to me. 2x6 with hammered in rebar every few feet
will hold. If you kept adding levels, and also supporting the down
side, you could go quite a height like that. But basically, build the
pad a lot larger than the shed (a metre all round is good, with 45
degrees max on the batter sides). Then level the bit you want.

He used a dumpy level. You could probably hire one with a staff. You
have read all the stuff about water levels and laser levels. They all
have their ups and downs. Laser leverl are useless outside unless you
have a sensor. But tye would be OK in a pre-built shed.


Any idea on how I can get this good and level before I start without
buying expensive tools or spending a lot of money? (We just had a baby
born two months ago).

Is this a doable project by myself?

Yes.