Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message

My old whirlpool (no ice maker) says the running power requirement is 330
to 420 watts. That between 3 and 4 A. Newer machines undoubtedly use
more electricity, but I can't imagine one using 10 A except at start up
and a 15 A breaker allows for temporary overage at start up.


Don't be suprised if the new ones use less. I got rid of an old 10 cu. ft
fridge and replaced it with a new 18 cu. ft. frost free and my electric bill
went down $10 a month. It has a nameplate rating of 4.75 A The kitchen
fridge has a Full Load rating of 6.5A for a 21 Cu. ft. side by side.

Searching a few web sites, they don't give any power requirements aside from
115V so doing any comparisons is not going to be simple. . In any case, a
15A breaker can certainly handle that load.


A dedicated circuit has nothing to do with safety, it has to do with
economics.


I'm not so sure. My house built in 1978 has a separate circuit. The safety
issue is not what the fridge will draw, but what other kitchen appliances
will do along with it. I'm not up on the code but I believe there is
specifics for counter receptacles as they can easily carry coffee makers,
toaster ovens, microwaves, all going at the same time.

New units of the same size may use less
electricity, but many of the new ones are much
larger and have way more features that older
models which I expect would offset any increased
efficiency. Certainly your 4.76 and 6.5A ratings
are larger than mine. BTW, my figures came off
the circuit page for the frig.

I'm sure that safety isn't a factor. The
circuit(s) are protected by the breakers. The
only thing that putting the various appliances on
separate circuits does, is reduce the likelihood
that the breakers will trip. Tripping isn't a
safety problem, just an inconvenience or loss of
food if it goes unnoticed.