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Baron
 
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I would use a chemical stripper if I were doing the volume of
architectural stripping that you seem to be. Since you plan to paint, there
is no reason why the scuff sanding followed by paint wouldn't work. I would
use a primer first to ensure adhesion but that may not be necessary. I can
not remember which way is safe - oil on top of latex or visa versa. If you
go with latex, use an all acrylic latex, not one that contains any vinyl.
The all acrylic is a harder film although it is a bit more difficult to work
with.

Good Luck.

"Dave" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello All,
I'm in the process of redoing a few rooms. The 1928 house has about 3
coats of paint on all of the interior wood trim. ( I assume lead on the
bottom coats). After spending months removing carpet, sanding, scraping
through six layers of paint, and staining the staircase, I"m looking
for an easier way to redo the windows rather than taking them all the
way back to wood.
If the paint is ok (not chiping, etc.) can I just do a light sanding so
smooth out the old brush strokes/small divets/etc from the existing
paint and repaint with a new color or do I have to strip and sand these
things all the way down. Between the six windows, the door trim and
baseboards, it would take me forever to strip all of the paint and
probably cost me my marraige.
Anyway, if I can do a light sand with say 100 or 150 grit and repaint,
what paint should I use - which might hold better w/o cracking -
enamel? Latex? other? Any advise on this project would be great.
Thanks,
David