Oil based enamel would be what I'd use and our painter would refuse to
use anything else. Natural bristle brush preloaded with thinner prior
to dipping into paint toe avoid paint drying near the ferrule and
making bristles stiff and making the brush easier to clean.

On 21 Feb 2005 10:15:10 -0800, "Dave" wrote:

Hello All,
I'm in the process of redoing a few rooms. The 1928 house has about 3
coats of paint on all of the interior wood trim. ( I assume lead on the
bottom coats). After spending months removing carpet, sanding, scraping
through six layers of paint, and staining the staircase, I"m looking
for an easier way to redo the windows rather than taking them all the
way back to wood.
If the paint is ok (not chiping, etc.) can I just do a light sanding so
smooth out the old brush strokes/small divets/etc from the existing
paint and repaint with a new color or do I have to strip and sand these
things all the way down. Between the six windows, the door trim and
baseboards, it would take me forever to strip all of the paint and
probably cost me my marraige.
Anyway, if I can do a light sand with say 100 or 150 grit and repaint,
what paint should I use - which might hold better w/o cracking -
enamel? Latex? other? Any advise on this project would be great.
Thanks,
David