"Dave" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello All,
I'm in the process of redoing a few rooms. The 1928 house has about 3
coats of paint on all of the interior wood trim. ( I assume lead on the
bottom coats). After spending months removing carpet, sanding, scraping
through six layers of paint, and staining the staircase, I"m looking
for an easier way to redo the windows rather than taking them all the
way back to wood.
If the paint is ok (not chiping, etc.) can I just do a light sanding so
smooth out the old brush strokes/small divets/etc from the existing
paint and repaint with a new color or do I have to strip and sand these
things all the way down. Between the six windows, the door trim and
baseboards, it would take me forever to strip all of the paint and
probably cost me my marraige.
Anyway, if I can do a light sand with say 100 or 150 grit and repaint,
what paint should I use - which might hold better w/o cracking -
enamel? Latex? other? Any advise on this project would be great.
Thanks,
I'd do a few spot scrapings, just out of curiosity, to see if the casework
was cheap pine or decent hardwood. Personally, if it was hardwood, I'd take
it back to bare wood and stain, but that is just me. (Sometimes, you get
lucky, and original finish is intact under the paint- get one edge started
with a razor, and it comes off in sheets. Especially true in houses that had
oil heat, if they didn't clean the old wood enough.) Now if it was 'just'
pine or similar, unless it was some profile you couldn't fake with modern
off-the-shelf stock, I'd price out what new wood would cost. Assuming you
have a miter box and a coping saw, removing the old a few sticks at a time,
and replacing with new, might be less work (definitely less mess) than even
half-way refinishing the old stuff, like you propose. You can finish the new
stuff out in the garage, and just touch up the nail holes and such after
installation.

aem sends...