I like old power tools, and like to put them to use, and don't concern
myself with retaining their collectable original condition. The main upgrade
that I regularly do is install a new 3-wire power cord so there is a safety
ground.
In my experience, everything comes apart, and most often without doing any
damage.. it's just a matter of using the correct approach and tools. Dremels
can be great for numerous multi-function cutters and small drills.

A quality pair of flush-cutting diagonal cutters can nip off the end of a
rivet, and raise those pesky pushed-in pins with the rivet heads.

In most cases with old stuff, I'd approach something like this wiring
problem as a perfect opportunity to disassemble the motor, clean and inspect
it (particularly in a vented case where something could've entered
unnoticed), and determine if any other modifications might be required..
removing housing material for a new power cord strain relief, or access to
oil the bearings maybe.

As someone mentioned, old stranded copper wire is almost always badly
oxidized and doesn't tin well. If you can only access the short stubs, you
might be able to gently scrape or brush the individual strands to get the
dark oxide off.

A small splicing band can be obtained by cutting the crimp section from a
plated copper ring/spade terminal, or a short section of a butt splice. If
you get a crimp on clean copper-to-clean copper, soldering won't be of much
benefit, and can even be more problematic in a situation where vibration (or
flexing) could be present.
The plated brass contact bars in barrier terminal strips are removable with
the screws removed, and would make a secure splice if a crimper won't fit in
that location, although they would require more free space for shrink tubing
or other insulation.

WB
...................

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
The little Dumore Carvit I was so happy to find recently had severe
fraying
of the cord right where it went into the motor housing. Today I spun it up
and yup, it went *pop*! I cut off the wires and tore the motor apart. Hmm.
Doesn't look like I can get back in there at all. Wire now only sticking
out ¼".
I very carefully working with magnifiers stripped off about 1/8", now I
have 2
ultra-short stubs of stranded copper, maybe 14 or 16 gauge, to which I
have to
solder a new power cord. It's a universally wound motor with brushes and
the
brush housings don't look removable from the stator shell and the stator
itself
is riveted to the brush housings, so it really doesn't look like I'm going
to
get inside there to do a decent splice.

I'm thinking of getting some skinny modelers brass tubing, slitting it
lengthwise maybe 1/2" with a Dremel tool, then cutting off a couple of
1/4"
thin brass crimp tubes and first making a mechanical connection by
crimping,
then soldering into the slit, then sliding on heat shrink and insulating
each
crimp, then sliding on another layer of heat shrink, then building up a
layer
of electrical tape, the good stuff so it tapers up and eventually catches
the
teeny 1/8" of old insulation left, then finally sliding on a bigger piece
of
heat shrink to make it look as clean as possible, then looping the wire to
a tie point on the body of the machine so there should never be any stress
on
the splice.

I know some of you guys are pretty handy on an electronics bench, how does
this
sound to you?

Grant Erwin




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