The foot is separate now, it screws on, so solder isn't a problem.

John
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
JMartin957 wrote:

[ ... ]

Is this, in fact, a problem with cast brass and if so, how to anneal
it?
I'm a little leary of just playing the torch on it. Could the kitchen
oven
be used for this? It can be set as high as 550 F. ? Would that high
enough
to anneal brass? It's a self cleaning gas oven but I don't have any idea
what the temperatures run to in the cleaning cycle but have wondered if
that
might be useful for this sort of job or even drawing steel. Thoughts?

[ ... ]

I do know that to anneal brass cartridge necks it is necessary not just to
heat
them but to quench them as well. Typical practice is to stand them in a
tray
of water, heat the necks, then knock them over.

As far as I know, the quench is only for convenience. It makes
it easy to identify the ones which you have already annealed, and you
don't have to reach in with tongs of some type to pick them up when you
are done.

Though a reason for doing this might be to make sure that the
base does not get overheated, as you want it to remain as worked. It
does not get repeatedly stretched the way the necks do, so it does not
need annealing, and if you *do* anneal it, it is perhaps more likely to
deform into the ejector notch and perhaps bind the bolt.

The brass, itself, anneals just as well with air cooling.

I would, in the case of the project proposed, more worry about
what kind of solder was used to attach the base to the rest of the item.
If silver solder, no problem. If plain old soft solder, you might have
to reassemble it when you are done. (But -- that might make it easier
to reshape it. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.
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