You didn't mention how the panel is being held in the cross-cut sled. I
suspect the panel is moving slightly on you and that is why you're still
seeing a slight burning.

When I built my sled, I built-in a sliding cross-piece that goes from front
to back. In that I used two clamp screws like used on the Delta tennon jig.
They were modified slightly by brazing some large washers on that hold the
clamps in the cross-piece and allow them to slide for positioning.

When I place a panel in the sled, I position the clamps so one is at the
front of the panel and one at the back edge -and both are near the line of
cut. Place a piece of thin scrap under each clamp so they don't get
indented and screw both clamps down - the panel doesn't move one bit.

You can probably use a temporary jig to see if that is the problem and clamp
the panel down so it cannot move in any direction. Worth a shot to see if
that's a good fix - or not for you.

Bob S.


"Mr Fixit eh" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thought I had the problem licked, but I ran through a bunch of panels
last night and I'm still getting some burned edges cutting 1/2 inch
melamine particleboard with the crosscut sled.

The degree of burning is alot better than it was BEFORE I adjusted the
blade alignment, so it's not
fill-the-whole-house-with-eye-burning-smoke burning. There are just
very visible burn marks along most of the cut edge, on the cut-side of
the workpiece. There is some chipout as well.

I have adjusted the blade carefully with a dial indicator to within
.0005"--assuming it is accurate. I checked it again several times. I
reference the gullet of one tooth, zero-out the indicator, then
carefully rotate the blade and check the measurement at the same
reference point but at the back of the saw. I am careful not to
introduce side-to-side pressure on the blade.

The dial indicator is screwed to a wood stip which is clamped to the
miter bar. There is no sideways 'play' in the miter slot. The dial
indicator is referencing the blade at a 90 degree angle. The dial
indicator is newly purchased from Lee Valley.

The blade is a new Oldham 100 tooth blade marked, "Ultra Finishing
Plywood/ OSB Industrial Carbide." The blade is only a month old, with
maybe 2-3 hours cutting time on it. There are no chips in the blade,
and it has just been cleaned.

I checked the runnout on the blade, and it is showing out-of-round by
.002 inch showing on the dial indicator. I am not able to check the
runnout on the saw's arbor because I don't have a magnetic base for the
indicator, but there is no play in the arbor.

I'v run cuts without the crosscut sled and there is no signs of
burning. With the crosscut sled--burn marks. I tried raising the
blade up, but that does not help improve the burning. It did result in
worse chipout, however.

Any ideas about what to do?

Mr Fixit eh