This sounds like a good idea but for the self tapping screws. It has been
my experience that when you cram a big screw in little hole you always
displace some of the metal toward the item being screwed.

I would drill straight through the fence if there is no mechanism the way,
and use a sex bolt and machine screw. If you counter bore the poly for the
sex bolt you can make the head flush, or just a little lower than flush.

If there is a conflict with something the fence, you could drill and tap the
fence and use a machine screw. This could be done with a flat head machine
screw if the poly is countersunk for the screw head.

If you use the flat head screw you need to be careful about how tight you
torque the screw. Too tight and you might displace the poly and or suck out
the threads in the fence if the wall section is real thin.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"BobS" wrote in message
...
Mark,

Do away with the clips, drill and countersink (for screw size you're
using)
and drill about 6, 1/8" dia holes down the center of the fence and use
some
self threading screws to mount the UHMW. If the UHMW is truly flat then
just
go ahead with the procedures below if you want to use this method. If the
UHMW is not flat and the faces parallel, then mill it flat. It will go
thru
your planer just fine. I used an MDF carrier when I milled my Jet Xacta
fence faces flat. I now have less a .001" variance the full length of my
fence after doing this.

The trick is in the details - as always. Once you drill the countersinks
and the initial 1/8" holes in the UHMW, place it against the fence using
some shims along the bottom edge to maintain table clearance evenly. I
placed some double back tape on mine then once aligned, pressed it into
place to hold it while I marked the holes. Use a exact fitting center
punch
to accurately mark the holes onto the metal portion of the fence. Remove
the UHMW and the tape.

Drill the correct size hole in the fence for whatever self-tapping screws
you're using (#8's are good). On the UHMW, elongate each hole evenly,
left
and right of the center of the 1/8" holes you drilled in the UHMW. When
mounting the UHMW, start from the center and work towards the ends
alternating tightening each screw left and right of center. The
countersinks should be deep and large enough so the screw head is beneath
the surface of the UHMW and large enough so the screw can take advantage
of
the elongated hole if it needs to in order to adjust flat to the fence.

Your metal fence may not be as flat as you think and you may end up with a
valley or two along the length. I use the Aligner Jr. to check mine. If
you find a low spot, simply loosen to two screws either side and place a
paper shim(s) as needed that are about the length of the distance between
the two screws and the height of the fence. Slowly tighten down the
screws
to just snug enough to hold the fence face securely - no need for any
wrist
breaking torque here. Measure and adjust and shim as needed.

Did mine over two years ago and it's still good today.

Bob S.


"Mark Howell" wrote in message
news:2_jJd.21502$1l2.8925@trndny05...
I'd like to replace the horrible UHMW faces on my
table saw fence with something better. Any
suggestions?

Mark H.