Baloney

If you can crank these out in less than an hour, go to it


I doubt it

you would still end up with a POS with no graduations, 2 inches too
short[by someone elses measurements]



hell, I wouldn't by a southbend on a bet anyway....



EdFielder wrote:
That is fairly typical of a machinist who is used to working for someone
else by the hour. The key to productivity in this and any other job is
examining the entire project and its function. Most machinist I know have a
tendency to make each project a " by the book" exercise in utilizing all
their skills. This is fine for certain jobs, but for what we are talking
about, its overkill.
Remember, this is a 60 year old South Bend hobby lathe. The original
does not even have a dial on the tailstock ram, only a crude sort of inch
scale on the side. Its function is to drill holes or support a center for
turning. The accurracy of the center support has nothing to do with the
acme screw or nut, it is determined by the fit of the ram in the casting.
If this fit is good, then once set and clamped its job is done. Further,
most acme nuts made for this purpose will have 0.010-0.020" lash, so all
that precise centering of the nut is just wasted effort. For the set screw,
the easy way is drill all the way throught the ram and nut and then tap with
a 10-32 tap- then put a set screw in each side long enough to be flush with
the surface and not too long to interfere with the threads-
"Ken Grunke" wrote in message
...

EdFielder wrote:


Cadillac version bored the USA sleeve and turned the nut down and

pressed

in and drilled for a set screw
25 minutes

Whatever kind of coffee you're drinking, it must be *really* good stuff.
Guess I'm kinda pokey, here's how long it might take me assuming the
4-jaw is already mounted (usually is), and I'm wide awake with a clear

head:

3 min.--Chuck sleeve, rough-center by eye
3min.--center to .0005 hopefully, with indicator
2 min.--pilot drill to 1/4"
3 min.--drill through for clearance of tailstock screw
3 min.--mount and line up boring bar, set up carriage stop for depth of
hole to press nut into
5 min.--bore out short hole to whatever dia. I think the nut will be
turned down to
10 min--Unchuck sleeve, chuck a piece of threaded rod to hold nut for
turning, set the leadscrew tpi to the same thread so it can be indicated
and centered (that's if you have a quick-change gearbox, I don't so it
would take me twice as long)
2 min.--carefully measure bore in sleeve to determine OD of nut
3 min.--mount nut on threaded rod with washer to space it away from
chuck, put a toolbit on the compound
2 min.--rough turn nut, and mike it
2 min.--lock the cross-slide, make another cut within ten thou of final
size, mike it again
3 min.--make the final pass, do a little file work for an easier press
or shrink fit and hope you didn't take too much off
Shrink fit? you gotta heat the sleeve up, that will take a few minutes--
then just drop the nut in unless something goes wrong and it freezes
halfway in cockeyed. Press fit will be quicker, of course.
Getting close to an hour now, still haven't put the setscrew in but I
don't know why it's needed, so I'll skip it.
Oh yeah, gotta allow some time for rummaging for the right washer,
scratching my head, answering the phone, etc.

Ken Grunke

--
take da "ma" offa dot com fer eemayl


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