Thanks - to do that I would have to bleed the water out of the pipes, and I
haven't a clue as to how to do that. It sounds like a job for a plumber...

I'll definitely vapour barrier and insulate, I just picked up some 3/4" pink
exterior foam board. I also got some short screws.



"boondocks" wrote in message
news:MTaGd.83614$nN6.33523@edtnps84...
You can use strapping, but make sure the drywall screws aren't too long as
they will contact the concrete before tightening on the drywall.

The only way to do that properly would be to turn off that heater zone,
remove the register and do it with 2x2's, connected to the above framing
and
ram set into the floor.
This way everything will be neat and tidy - the first time.

Also, if you go that route, you can also get flexable heating pipes that
would make the re-attachmant easier - except they need to be crimped with
a
special tool instead of solder.

Don't forget to insulate and vapor barrier also. Will seem pointless, but
should be done.

T

"Phreak" wrote in message
news:fN8Gd.98622$dv1.25669@edtnps89...
Hi, please see the picture posted at the URL below.

http://www.gosea.com/basement/basement.jpg

I am trying to figure out how to frame the concrete portionof this wall.
The
above portion was drywalled by the builders when they sold it to us, the
basement was supposed to be unfinished.

I have a few questions:
- can I frame with strapping instead of 2x4 because of the clearance
between
the wall and the back of the heater - about 2", as you can see by the
wood
that is there holding it out
- using construction adhesive with th ewood directly against the
concrete,
or do I need to
- do I need to drill the concrete for screws instead (don't want to)

Some points:
- concrete is above grade
- sill on top of concrete is about 2" wide, clearance for pipe is about
2.5-3"
- clearance behind heater is about 2"