On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 20:51:14 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

Dennis.. I just make a ring collar chuck, from directions from Ken
Vaughn's site...
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...ing_collar.jpg

If your blank has a flat face and roughly round bottom, this works
great to work on the bottom of the blank, and also to finish the
bottom later..

When I rough turn I make a tenon at the base of the green wood blanks
The problem is once the blanks is dry the tenon becomes oval. I have not
yet found an ideal way to true the tenon before placing it in the chuck for
finishing.

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 02:06:40 -0500, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote:



Mac there is no wrong way or right way if it works for you

But I use good wood screws, in my face plate, if my screws don't strip
out then I'm not afraid that the wood will come off, now the glue joint
is another question, and I rarely use glued on bowl blanks, I normally
cut the outside form then use the stronghold chuck to hold it and hollow
the inside.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


ok Leo.. here's an area I'm having trouble with...

I'm trying to get away from faceplate turning, to avoid the wasted
wood.. (hoping to get into some more exotic wood than firewood)

I've been experimenting with roughing out the bowls between centers
and leaving them with either a base or tenon for the chuck, so I can
do the rest of the turning with the Talon..

My problem is that whether I use a tenon or a base, the bowl won't
true on the chuck.... a neighbor that works in a machine shop thinks
that the base or tenon might not be true with the face of the bowl and
that if it isn't, the bowl won't true out no matter how much you carve
away at it...

Logic tells me that if something is true when between centers, it
should be true when chucked, but I must be missing something here...
H E L P ! !


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing