OK, now I feel like an idiot. I was looking at the motor again
tonight and realized that per the instructions on the main wiring
block, it was wired for 240 volts. Once I changed it to 120 volts, the
motor started right up. I am not sure if there is any torque on the
motor as it was disassebled and I did not feel like putting my hand on
it when it was disassembled.

This does raise a few questions that maybe someone can help me with.

1. Since it was set to 240 volts on the wiring block, are there any
other changes made to the motor to get it to work with 240 volts?

2. I was surprised to see that it still had a 120 volt plug on the
motor. Does this indicate that someone was probably playing with the
motor and not really using it for 240 volts? I thought that it would
need a new plug to be used in a 240 volt outlet?

3. Does this have anything to do with the possible disconnected part I
mentioned in my previous posting?

I will put the saw back together in the next few days and test it out.
As I mentioned, I hoped to get it working because it is recalled but I
am eligible for an upgrade kit and not the $100.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Glen


Greg O wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

The part in question is in the first picture and it is the two
copper
leads coming out of the clear plastic casing. It is located on the
back end of the motor and appears that it has solder on it. Should
it
be connected to something and/or could it be causing my problems?

Thanks for all the help.

Glen


It could be the start switch! Is it possible someone tried to fix
this motor
before you got it? I see a yellow wire nut that looks out of place
too. Most
factory connections are spade connections, wire nuts are not typical.

Maybe time to take it to a motor shop!

Have you checked to see if this saw falls into the safty recall that
Sears
has out? You may just want to collect the $100 from the recall and
move on!
Greg